Tierhaare Der Hutindustrie / Animal Hair The Hat Industry, Herbert Rosenthal (1929)

[habigman]

Tierhaare der Hutindustrie / Animal Hair The Hat Industry, Herbert Rosenthal (1929) from the from the Gotisches Haus (Gothic House) Bad Homburg, Germany collection.

 

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Animal Hair the Hat Industry.

 

Charges approved by the Technical University of Munich in order to obtain the dignity of DOCTOR OF TECHNICAL SCIENCES (Doctor of Agriculture) treatise.

 

Presented by Agronomist Herbert Rosenthal born in Luckenwald, Germany.

 

1. Reviewer: Professor Dr. Philosophy Heidi Henseler.

2. Reviewer: Professor Councillor Dr. Philosophy Theodor Henkel.

 

Date of filing of work 11th, February 1929

Date of acceptance of work 27th, February 1929

 

 

OVERVIEW

 

A. Basics

 

1. Idea and condition of work. II. Hat industry History of the felt. 111. animal hair as a raw material. lV. Methodology of hair research.

 

B. animal hair for hair hat industry

 

1. Principles of fabrication. II. Hair qualities. 111. hair of Leporidae (Hare and Rabbit). IV. Generation of hair.

 

C. Notes: Assortment provisions of Leporidenhaaren (Hare and Rabbit Hair)

I. The information recorded. II. Experiment. III. Preliminary. IV. Principal Investigator.

 

D. Summary I. Excerpt from the work. II. Overall results.

 

E. literature

1. List of works. 11. Names Register.

 

This work is a contribution to the economic control. He uses the example of the hat industry type and destination of the links between industry and animal husbandry. In the general part, the base and the position of each region is provided to each other. The economic fundamentals I gained while traveling to Berlin, Munich, Leipzig and Guben. In Guben. Berlin and Luckenwnlde I was looking for experience for those portions of the work, which treat the hat industry. Agricultural and related exhibitions and meetings in Berlin, Munich and Leipzig supplemented my collected material on zoo technical matters. Hair research I made at the Institute of Animal Husbandry and Breeding Biology, Munich and in Guben Hat Factory.

 

 

 

TABLE OF CONTENTS

 

A. Basics

 

I. Idea and condition of work. § 1. The idea of ​​the work. § 2. And their conditions

 

II. On the history of Felt hat industry § I. From the cultural history of the hat ... , Page 11 13 14 17 18 § 2. Development of the Hat to hat industry 29 § 3. Basic laws of hat fashion. 22 § 4. The organization of the hat industry. 24 § 5. Economic Impact 27 (production strength and value.)

 

III. Animal hair as a raw material. 35 § 1. wool and hair. 37 § 2. commercial varieties. 38 § 3 qualities. 41 § 4. delivery of the raw material. 43 § 5. Raw runs. 45

 

IV. Methodology hair research. 49 § 1. The morphology of the hair. 51 § 2. hair examination methods. 66 § 3. Hannöversche woolly measuring 69 § 4. Munich hair examination. 71 § 5. From new equipment. 75

 

B. animal hair for Hair Hat Industry. 79

 

1. Principles of Manufacturing § 1. Hair Hat Industry 83 § 2. Preparation of material S5 § fabrication 3. Principles of Raw. 89 § 4. At final fabrication. 101 § 5. Chemistry fabrication. 104

 

II. Hair qualities. 1 (19 § 1. Delivery 111 § 2. rabbit hair. 112 § 3. Wild Rabbit hair. 114 § 4. Tame Rabbit Hair 116 § 5. experience with hair qualities. 117 § 6. Quality overview. 110 § 7. Comparison of 12c, § 8. On the issue of normalization 120

 

III. Hair of Rabbit and Hare. , , .. 135 § 1. Construction and Composition 137 § 2. requested features. 145 § 3. influencing the coat 146 § 4. heredity 150

 

 

IV. Generation of hair (rabbits) • • § I. cultivar and economy. , • •. § 2. Stand and value of German rabbit breeding. § 3. Investigation of livestock races. § 4. breeding goal

 

C. Notes: Assortment provisions of Leporidenhaare

 

1. The material.

§1. Introduction . § 2. What qualities distinguish the industry?

 

II. Experiment. § I. examination method. §

2. Variation of the method. • § 3. hair cleansing and mix

 

III. Preliminary § I. measurement with or without guard hairs. § 2. Installation of standard images. § 3. Uniform Make

 

IV. Principal Investigator. § 1. assortment determination of bright Zahm kanin qualities. § 2. range determination of gray Zahm kanin qualities. § 3. Range Determination of dark Zahm kanin qualities. § 4. Results and Conclusion.

 

D Summary. I. summary of work § 1. animal hair of hat industry § 2. assortment provisions of Leporidenhaaren. II. Main results. E. Literature. I. List of works § 1. General. § 2. skin and hair. § 3. leporidae. § 4. § 5. Pelztierzudd industry. § 6. magazines. II. Name Index.

 

Herbert Rosenthal. Animal hair hat industry

 

1

 

 

I. Idea and condition. job

 

Regulation of production and consumption. - Landwirtrchaft and industry. - Idea

 

Transition and goal of my work. The conditions. - Studies. - Support of the industry. - Literature,

 

 

Animal hair the hat industry

 

§ 1

 

The idea of ​​work

 

13

 

The world is obsessed with the idea of ​​acceptable competition. It is produced. One wonders hardly after the world needs. Legal numerous, pretty judgmental, often pointless produced. In an age that wants to overcome with great effort and strongest tension the consequences of World War II, It is practiced extensively. For performance, value and progress are too small for the executed work. If on the one hand makes the producer and provides not only according to the laws of consumption, on the other hand will not always consume according to the laws of the need of the consumer. Although production increased increases nor the consumption. However, the performance of the resulting success, does not increase to the same extent. It is too much, too versatile and certainly does not consume rationally. And one often produced in harmless competition, still cheaper and with an exaggerated importance on externals to bring "mass product" Among all the quality of the product, the economy of the buyer suffers:.. The national wealth Certainly, the private will businessperson me say: I produce so long to an increased extent, as long as I deserve even if it is at the expense of quality - but many times he scored at an acceptable competition and the usual business methods a smaller net profit than would correspond to its expenses Probably this gain is.. nor diminished appear through the larger claims that he represents to life. because he wants more out of life because he has to work more. And have this multi-from life consists in a greater consumption, so that the values ​​resounding performance of his work reducing . -. a chain that from the success of what use is it as if a small number of economists recognize and combat the threat. The industry, agriculture, the citizens, the businessman, they would all have to think economically and act. And what would be the way? One word characterizes him: organization. In a system of production under German consumption we will, without damaging the private sector,

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Continued.

 

 

14

 

Herbert Rosenthal

 

create serious economic values. Here the time being an understanding between producers and consumers would be necessary First is to determine what can be and in what quantities produced domestically. This must be used first. Thus, a large proportion of unnecessary import turns off. Superfluous competition is avoided. This task I will collaborate with my work on the animal hair in the German hat industry. Here two major areas of German production are shown in mutual relations: industry and agriculture. One does now and then the error, calling them alien to these two areas, which support and complement would and interdependent. Indeed, even two such separate translucent branches of industry and agriculture, such as hat-industry and livestock can claim it to be considered together with a system of production and consumption.

I see in my work the livestock as Liefererunddie hat industry as a consumer of the raw material for the hat manufacture. Since it is already evident on a cursory information that hardly any understanding between the two regions is present. From a real, due to organizational cooperation can be no question. Therefore, it may seem right, once you have lit the way of cooperation. As a basis for this Maessen foundations and historical development, and working method of the hat industry are described. Below is a description of the material stress. Experi-ments of hat manufacturers and their appreciation of different hair types I tried to put together. From this table infer quality overview of the most common types of hair. This would underline by a large number of studies in their co-dependent. To this end I give a Reconnaissance scheme which depends on the physical and chemical stress. In an appendix, the first step has been taken for this purpose in the citation of findings on comparative microscopy and fineness measurements. It would remain recommended for textile and similar institutions, to carry out these investigations continue. Because they are very interesting for the practice. Regardless but it can be calculated from the tables to the quality survey already an inference for the Livestock draw. I'll be there-up in the last chapters to speak. Finally, consideration of the German Kaninehenzucht and ingedbeer iWebiiirndigeiunnegr dee Karsindrens (the main supplier Huthaare) basis for the issue of a special breeding for Haarhutindustrie,

 

Animal hair the hat industry

 

§2 And their conditions

 

15

 

Subjecting this work, so it is very important to be able to contact both areas the hat industry and agriculture. This is not always readily possible. While on the one hand the connection is with the industry difficult to achieve, because rightly a violation of secrecy factory is feared, appropriate and syste-matic scientific knowledge and training on the other hand necessary for the field of animal breeding. This knowledge I sought m: r from a study at the Technical University of Munich in the agricultural department to acquire. To this end, I heard lectures on anatomy and embryology at Privy shock, Physiology with Professor Pä ch tner, Livestock and Breeding Biology at Professor Henseler, and science of heredity Mr. lecturer A m sch I he. After passing the final examination, I worked hard on this work in the Department of Animal Breeding and Breeding Biology, whose line was incumbent Professor Henseler. So it was possible for me to be-especially in the biological part of my job show me some advice and some experience of Professor Henseler, Dr. Amschler and Dr. Krüger. A particular advantage it has been for me that I could use the information collected by Dr. Döhner apparatus for measuring properties of wool. I it would be remiss not to thank, especially my revered teacher, Professor Henseler to say. The combined-contact the hat industry I was especially by my father, who has been in this industry for 28 years, very relieved. Then have provided me with various companies with advice and material procurement in amiable manner available Of these I would like to especially thank the following companies in this context again: Guben-Rastatt Hutstoffwerke, Hat factory Anton Fischer Guben, brothers Gattel Hutfabrik Berlin, Guben flood factory formerly Obscene & Co., Maschinenfabrik Heinze Guben. Especially the Guben-Rastatt Hutstoffwerke were jederseit ready to get me specimen disinterested, Finally I contacted various breeders circles in Meinungsaus-exchange, of which I found courtesy especially for the special part my- ArtSee at Bavarian breeders. However, even with other German breeders I was looking for connections, so I have been at% Jet Exhibition 1928 in Leipzig, at the Berlin Erniihrimits-

 

 

16 Herbert Rosenthal

 

 

Exhibition and the city's precious fur-look given some experience. These possibilities and relations extended the basics of my work considerably. To me to find even in the literary field an overview, I began an eager study of literature, of which my literary evidence testifies. However, according to the nature of my work, it was mirnicht possible to work through the entire relevant literature. For it belongs .here not only extremely large morphological, histological and embryological literature on this, but also those on animal husbandry, medicine, anatomy, pathology, forensics, Uncooked, etc. But I hope to have given me the sufficient overview to my work be able to build. This perhaps exaggerated translucent considering the variety in question views based on the design and the basis of that I tried to give my work. I have initially defined this chapter briefly understanding between production and consumption. In our case is an understanding between the livestock producer and the hat industry as a consumer to seek. May be this I managed the first step.

 

 

II. History of the hat industry

 

 

With and without a hat. - Hats of antiquity. - Meaning of medieval hat-shapes and colors. - Class differences. - Symbol of the policy. - Headgear of professional bodies. - Internationalization. - Hats of Time. - Purpose of the hat. - Development transition. - Abe Nouel. - Permanent gloss and Dauerfon. - Foreign competition. - Decrease in millinery in Germany. - Copy of foreign hats and working methods. - Rise. - Mode change. - Expiration of the craft-producing moderate. - The beginning and basis of industry. - Big industry. -War. - Lack of raw products. - Decline. - Inflation. - Rise. - Hazards.

 

The mode as a primary concern. - Abraham ä Santa Clara reported hat fashion. -Incorrect Setting fashion. - Current status of fashion. - Fashion offices.

 

Work objectives of the Central Association. - Sorry, no organizational understanding with the raw material suppliers. - Kontigegitierung? - Organisation of advertising arrangements for imports, - hats that manufacturing secrets!

 

Statement of production capacity. Number of establishments and persons employed. - Statistics of production. - Comparison of import and export. - Summary of economic importance. - Control of production strength.

 

 

18

 

Herbert Rosenthal

 

§1

 

From the cultural history of the hat, the hat is a document of the times culture. For he follows as a symbol and badge, and even in the form and nature of the prevailing school of thought. Alternately you could see him through the times again as a symbol of freedom, another time as the lack of freedom. Here he was worn proudly by free man while the slaves of this jewelry was denied. The greeting from uncovering the head may well have been regarded as particularly benevolent and honorable mark of respect. There enveloped you the head to show reverence in that nation before the people, in this even before God. Other people showed up on a free head and let their servants go with dresses again. Alternately was so the reputation of the hat, even then subjected to the great laws: the fashion. He was used to verschiedenstem purpose. And strangely, by the time he was regarded as a sign and and name such as a commodity. In history, its purpose is mentioned as a designation means even largely. So we are told in antiquity especially two hat styles, the upward tapering "tires" and the top rounded traveling hat "petasus". With the latter, the god of trade Mercury is often decorated. The Germans had their fashions hat. They say by the Goths, that they wore a rounded top and raiding in a corner pointed hat. One sees the most varied hat styles in antiquity. And as the hat was shaped and changed until the Middle Ages to its meaning. You can hear the knight hat as a sign of supremacy and chivalry. And so strong was the decorations of the hat that you - the Gessler proves it - could occasionally miss her head under. Also a badge of honor received the students after completing their studies, the mortarboard. On the other hand allowed to wear as a sign of contempt typical hats, which are known as Jews hats Jews. Even the color distinctively plays a role. Jews were strangely not wear yellow. Apparently was so yellow particularly popular fashion color. Bankrupts showed their dubious reputation publicly by the need to cover themselves with green hats. So the hat was a mannigfaches differentiator for nobles, priests, citizens, farmers, craftsmen and professional organizations.

 

Animal hair the hat industry

 

19

 

The diverse variation by rank and dignity in which soldiers Hat has remained so preserved to our days. More and more seized the political parties of the hat as a sign and symbol. In the French Revolution marked Jacobin hats comrades of mind. At the beginning of the 19th century the top hat was the sign of the revolutionaries, and then in 1848 as toppers clothe 'citizens and finally to rehabilitate in our days as a sign of elegance finest reputation shiny. So changes and changes the meaning of the hat to the fashion. Middle of the last century, the revo'utionäre sentiments proved by wearing Kalabresers. Later this form was a sign bourgeois art disposition as Demokratenhut Bismarks again. And always goes on the development of the hat as a distinguishing feature of the parties and classes, to the present day. Workers and trade unions are characterized by the cap, rights organizations uniform with beret, berets. The professional organizations show here and there the urge to express their stand publicly by typical hats. The best known are probably the hats Hamburger carpenters. But every child knows and fears the chimney sweeps with their cylinders. By contrast, my many artists, is best identified by a broad-brimmed slouch hat. And even those girls the street, love upon themselves as a commercial choice, falling on-by most magnificent Huttrachten. Of course, in the very last time these efforts weaken. Because the fashion dictates the international Europeans. Of course, certain taste limits are permitted. However, one can speak of a propa-alloyed and prevailing direction. The current fashion is relentless and demanding. It requires the ladies a morning, afternoon and evening hat while the Herrren against contented itself with a day and a evening hat. Not to mention it may stay that almost occurred adaptation between men's and lady's hat. This was the time when the woman in professional sports and being the man copied and emulate him be endeavored. Probably this competitiveness should be expressed by wearing hats Mr. So we see the hat is almost over Untersdteidungs- and disposition characteristic. And its purpose is almost forgotten. The purpose of the hat but peaked yet in effect, to protect them from sun, rain and cold, was only later came into the headgear, protection against accidents expressed, I am thinking of the helmet