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habigman

Member Since 22 Aug 2009
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 02:58 PM
*****

Topics I've Started

"Echt Panama" J. Pul Muntplein 5 Amsterdam

13 April 2018 - 07:56 PM

"Echt Panama" J. Pul Muntplein 5 Amsterdam, 59cm, Crown 5 inches, Brim 2 3/8 inches probably mid to late 1950s maybe later. This hat was one of a recent 3 hat find that included a Rehfus & Cie. / Hutfabrikanten Homburg and a Echter Borsalino Homburg. I tend to think it was blocked and dressed locally. I really like the ribbon design and blocking / form.

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J. Pul Jr. Muntplein 5 Amsterdam probably 1920s - 1930s.

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Carl Jacobs Halle a/S. (Hat Retailer)

07 April 2018 - 04:02 PM

Carl Jacobs Halle a/S., measures 57cm, probably WWI era maybe later.  No company mark but probably made by one of the hat companies in Guben or Luckenwalde.  Currently I can't make out the symbol above Carl Jacob on the liner.  It has a over welt brim with a slightly offset smaller scale bow and a unique shinny lime green liner.  The Velour is in very good condition and have a very nice glossy finish and fine hand.
 
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Muffbox
Carl Jacob, Halle a / S., Kleinschmieden 7
Owner of the royal Prussian state medal in silver for commercial services
Warehouse finished. Furs of own factory
 
Circa 1900
 
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Fetten oder Schmieren / Greasing or Lubricate "Der Hut" Gustav Menschel, 2009

13 March 2018 - 04:21 PM

Here is some information (translated from German) from a unpublished book written by the last director (still alive) of Ebreichsdorfer (Austria) Filzhutfabrik / S. & J. Fraenkel Wien (closed in 1972). I am not sure there is any other book like this one. I have included the German and I will look into getting a better English translation.

Update 03/14/2018: I made some changes based on feedback from member and friend ErWeSa (Wolfgang). The major change is in bold.

"Smooth hats have a long tradition. They are mainly produced from tame or wild rabbit or from mixtures of both types of hair. Hats made of pure beaver hair are rarely found, and a percentage of beaver hair is added to high-quality felts. Originally, the molded and dry hat was smoothed by hand with the pumice stone, later with sandpaper. Then, by passing over with a piece of fish skin, fine, short hair was brought out to improve gloss and feel. In industrial production, the pre-dressed hats are dressed on automatic head and edge grinding machines by rubbing and greasing. The American trimming additionally uses color powder to improve the hand and look. The powder conceals small defects and gives the hat surface a closed appearance and a pleasant hand. The pigment mixture, which is adapted to the color of the hat, is applied at the end of the friction work and fixed to the surface by gentle greasing and dry-leveled."

"Glatte Hüte haben eine lange Tradition. Sie werden vorwiegend aus Zahm- oder Wildkanin bzw. aus Mischungen beider Haarsorten erzeugt. Hüte aus reinem Biberhaar findet man selten, Anteile von Biberhaar werden hochwertigen Filzen beigemischt. Ursprünglich wurde der angeformte und trockene Hut mit dem Bimsstein, später mit einem Reibpapier von Hand glatt geschliffen. Anschließend wurde durch Überfahren mit einem Stück Fischhaut feines, kurzes Haar hervorgeholt, damit Glanz und Griff verbessert. In der industriellen Fertigung werden die vorgeriebenen Hüte auf automatischen Kopf- und Randreibemaschinen durch Reiben und Fetten zugerichtet. Die amerikanische Zurichte verwendet zusätzlich Farbpuder um Griff und Optik zu verbessern. Der Puder verdeckt kleine Fehler und verleiht der Hutoberfläche ein geschlossenes Aussehen und einen angenehmen Griff. Die auf die Hutfarbe abgestimmte Pigmentmischung wird am Ende der Reibarbeit aufgetragen, durch leichtes Fetten an der Oberfläche fixiert und trocken egalisiert. "

"Greasing or Lubricate
Pouncing / rubbing negatively affects the color look of the hats, they become dull and lustreless. Greasing binds the friction dust remaining in the felt and levels / smooths the surface. The color gets luminosity and a rich look. With light colors, the grease can be dispensed with, sometimes this is even advantageous. For dark colors or blacks, greasing is indispensable. Suitable fatliquors are a number of natural and synthetic oils. Poplar oil and the thick Green Laurel oil that was banned in many countries because of possible allergic skin reactions were widespread. Both oils are dilutable by adding trichlorethylene or Vaseline oil. Rapeseed oil, spindle oils, Vaseline and specially prepared products such as Lorbol** are currently used.

In order to put grease on the hat you first put it on a luring pad (the Schmierballen, if this is the correct translation for a piece of textile that is either folded or filled with e.g. cotton wool in order to get a tight piece of material), which is then heated by holding it close to a hot plate to melt the grease/lubricating agent. Then the hat is brushed with this pad with the nap. After that the hat is wiped again with a piece of soft cloth (the "Brenntuch") that has been warmed on a hot plate (presumably to get rid of any superfluous grease)."

**I searched "Lorbol" but came up empty.

"Fetten oder Schmieren
Reiben beeinflußt die Farboptik der Hüte negativ, sie werden matt und stumpf. Durch das Fetten wird der im Filz verbliebene Reibstaub gebunden und die Oberfläche egalisiert. Die Farbe bekommt Leuchtkraft und ein sattes Aussehen. Bei hellen Farben kann auf das Fetten verzichtet werden, manchmal ist das sogar von Vorteil. Bei dunklen Farben oder Schwarz ist ein Fetten unerläßlich. Als Fettungsmittel kommen eine Reihe natürlicher und synthetischer Öle in Frage. Weit verbreitet war Pappelöl und das dickflüssige grüne Lorbeeröl, das in vielen Ländern wegen möglicher allergischer Hautreaktionen verboten wurde. Beide Öle sind durch Zusatz von Trichloräthylen oder Vaselineöl verdünnbar. Gegenwärtig werden vor allem Rapsöl, Spindelöle, Vaseline und speziell zubereitete Produkte, wie Lorbol, verwendet. Zum Fetten des Hutes streicht man etwas Fettungsmittel auf den Schmierballen, hält diesen an eine heiße Platte, bis er sich etwas erwärmt und das Fett verteilt hat. Nun wird der gesamte Hut nach dem Strich bearbeitet und mit dem Brenntuch, einem auf einer Platte erwärmten weichen Lappen, ausgewischt. "

R. Hecht Leipzig (No Company Mark)

09 March 2018 - 10:50 PM

R. Hecht Leipzig - Theater Passage - Grimmaishe Str. 12, Wool, 58cm, 160 grams probably 1930s. The Wool is dense and the finish is very smooth. There is only a small fragment of main paper stamp remaining behind the sweatband. The main paper tag is the same type as a number of other German hats I have that don't have a company mark. My guess is that these hats were made by one of the large scale German Hat Companies that were located in Eastern Germany that produced both Wool and Fur Felt hats but didn't survive WWII.

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The above cm size tag and main paper stamp fragment are similar to the this hat.

http://germanaustria...brik/#entry1137

I have few other hats with the same main paper stamp but no company mark. As I mentioned I believe these hats were made by one of the large scale German Hat Companies that were located in Eastern Germany that produced both Wool and Fur Felt hats but didn't survive WWII.

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Natural Light

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Friedrich Steinberg Herrmann & Co. Hutfabrik Luckenwalde

09 March 2018 - 07:03 PM

From "Deutsche Hutmacher-Zeitung (German Hat Maker News)", December 15, 1936 from the from the Gotisches Haus (Gothic House) Bad Homburg , Germany collection. This a special edition for the Scandinavian market.

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From the above article:

"The company was founded in 1811 as a cloth factory but converted in 1883 on hat factory. The company manufactures hoods and hats in wool, hair and velour for men and women. In the modern factory rooms equipped with all the latest innovations, it is possible to produce up to 1,200 pairs of stumps per day which are further processed in a branch plant also located in Luckenwalde. In the field of export, the company has been active in the early days."

The factory building was designed by the famous architect Erich von Mendelsohn.

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http://www.hiddenarc...at-factory.html

Some of the factory still stands today and is a protected monument. The following photos were taken during a recent renovation project (now completed).

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