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#1823 "NEUHEIT / Novelty" "SPITZENKLASSE / Top Class"

Posted by habigman on 15 November 2017 - 10:50 PM in German Hat Companies

"NEUHEIT / Novelty" "SPITZENKLASSE / Top Class", measures 58cm, late 1930s. This German Velour arrived recently. I am trying to figure out what company made it but that could prove futile.  I really like the color and the Velour has a great finish and hand. Also the hat has a very unique liner design with reed piping.
 
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The piping reed is visible the  following photo (top of liner).
 
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Natural Light
 
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#1822 Johann Hückel´s Söhne - Hückel Hutfabrik Weilheim

Posted by habigman on 13 November 2017 - 10:34 PM in Austrian Hat Companies

J. Hückel ´s Söhne "Flexible" "Seal Velour" from Huthase  in Natural Light.
 

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#1821 Johann Hückel´s Söhne - Hückel Hutfabrik Weilheim

Posted by habigman on 13 November 2017 - 10:30 PM in Austrian Hat Companies

J. Hückel ´s Söhne "Flexible" "Seal Velour" from Mauerer Wien in Natural Light.

 

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#1820 Ebreichsdorfer Heimatmuseum (S. & J. Fraenkel Hat Factory / Ebreichsdorfe...

Posted by habigman on 10 November 2017 - 08:04 PM in General Discussion

Continued.

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Fulling, Multi-Roller Machine (Workers) HM 23, 43
Fulling, Hammer Fulling Machine (Workers) HM 54
Fulling, Rolling Machine (Workers) HM 55

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Automatic Hot Wet Brushing for Velours (Workers) HM 52

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Auto Hot Wet Brushing Machines (Close-up) HM 52

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Fulling, Scratching / Touring for Velour (Workers) HM 51
Fulling, Hand Rolling (Workers) HM 53

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Scratching with Shark Skin for Velour (Workers) HM 46
Scratching / Touring for Velours (Workers) HM 28
Automatic Shearing Machines (Workers) HM 29

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Brushes for Scratching / Touring (bottom center)
Pliers (top center)
Hot Wet Brushed and Scratched Hood (left)
Dyed Velour Hoods (right)



#1819 Ebreichsdorfer Heimatmuseum (S. & J. Fraenkel Hat Factory / Ebreichsdorfe...

Posted by habigman on 08 November 2017 - 06:06 PM in General Discussion

Continued.

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Fache / Forming

Hair Forming, Felting, Fulling

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In the specialized machine, arises by uniform distribution of a particular
Amount of hair on the tray bell the basic shape of the future Stumpens.
(See original box on the right in the corner!)

The compartment bell is perforated. The air is coming from inside the compartment bell
sucked off, creating a negative pressure, which in the compartment housing (= "Dome")
reaching hair adheres to the rotating tray bell evenly distributed.
In order to prevent this hair layer thus obtained from
pressure and opening the dome falls from the box, the hair is already sprayed
before with hot water, making a first, however, only loose
binding arises. (far left diagram caption)

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Felting Department Personal (HM 42, HM 22)

Probably the most common and also the most complete walke / fulling machine is the Multiroller. There are several models here, those with 12, 19, 29 or 30 rollers. The felts graze through between the parallel arranged rotating and horizontally and vertically shifting rollers. They are exposed to a hot water flow, which accelerates the felting. The feeding of the multirollers with the wrought material is done by a continuous felt chain, which is created by superimposing the felts. The felts graze after leaving the machine (see 'Felting') and reintroduced to achieve uniform coverage on all sides. After about 20 passages, the walking / fulling is finished with the multiroller, which ..... (lower right corner caption)

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In the following work-style felts - (tossing) walking / fulling, the hair is given a firmer cohesion by moisture, heat, movement, and pressure.
The structure of the hair is compressed more and more, the felt arises. (center diagram caption)

For felting several compartments (6-8) are wrapped in a cloth and this
Rolls rolled between rollers. After several roll movements each roll becomes
opened, the subjects laid in a different direction and rolled again. This
Shifting ("crossing") can not be done by machines, but only by hand
and normally happens 16 times. (center diagram caption)

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Walking / Fulling - Multi Roller Machine (HM 23, HM 43)

Workers Cap (center caption)

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Fulling, Brushing, Touring, Clipping

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The stumps are loosely placed in the walker / fulling holder during "hammer walking / fulling" to expose them to a pushing pressure from two hammers. Thus, the felting takes place from all sides at the same time. The hammers are toothed and push the stumps a little further with each up and down excursion, so that the entire material to be drilled comes into direct contact with the hammers.

During processing, the stumps are constantly sprinkled with the Fulling water.

At higher temperatures felting occurs more uniformly and much faster. After the Hammering Walken / Fulling the stump has shrunk compared to the compartment to 1/8 and is dense and firm. (lower center diagram)

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Centimeter measure to check the size of the stump.

Fulling Roll ("Fulling Beater")

Velour Stumpen / Hoods, Automatic Hot Wet Brushed (lower right corner)



#1818 Ebreichsdorfer Heimatmuseum (S. & J. Fraenkel Hat Factory / Ebreichsdorfe...

Posted by habigman on 08 November 2017 - 06:06 PM in General Discussion

This is a visual tour of the Ebreichsdorfer Heimatmuseum (S. & J. Fraenkel Wien Hat Factory / Ebreichsdorfer Felt Hat Factory) which I visited March 10th 2017. I would to thank the Director of the museum Rudolf Dworak and his associates for showing me the museum during the off season and for putting me in contact with the last Director (started as Master Dyer in the mid 1950s) of the factory which closed in 1972. I would highly recommend visiting the museum if you are in the Vienna area. The town of Ebreichsdorf is located just south of Vienna.

https://www.heimatmu...reichsdorf.com/

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S. & J. Fraenkel Wien Hat Factory / Ebreichsdorfer Felt Hat Factory produced both Felt and finished / semi finished Fur Soft Felt Hats. They were very well known for the fine Austrian Velours they produced going back to the late 19th Century (founded 1874). By the late 1950s S. & J. Fraenkel Wien Hat Factory / Ebreichsdorfer Felt Hat Factory was the largest Felt and Hat factory in Austria. They acquired the Brüder Böhm trademark and other trademarks of former Austrian Hat Factories. They also produced finished hats for Dunn & Co. of England among others. At the time of the factory closing in 1972 they were the last large scale Felt and Hat factory in Austria.

I will start with Felt and Hat production section of the exhibit.

Click On Photos To Expand! (Recommended!)

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The Hair Stump / Hood Production

From the Fur to the Stump / Hood, Cut Hair, Hair Mixing, Clean (Blow) Hair

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Hare and rabbit hair are the raw material for felt hat production. In the past, hair from beaver, muskrat or otters played a certain role as additions. (left side caption)

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In hairdressing the hair of the coat is separated on the skin, whereby the hair fleece as a whole is preserved ("kitten"). After your First World War, the hairdressing of the Ebreichsdorfer felt hat factory was abandoned and prepared fur was purchased. (upper left photo caption)

Functional diagram of the hair clipper. (upper left HM 18 photo caption)

In the mixing plant, the hairs of many animals and distinguished by different qualities are mixed in specific proportions in order to bring the raw material to a uniform quality. (upper right HM 18 photo caption)

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Trimmed hair (mixed and blown) (left side caption HM 15)

The blowing machine is used last Cleaning and dusting the hair, but especially for sharply separating coarse hair (bristle, prickly hair) from the soft downy hair, which is the sole raw material for making hats. (right side caption HM 20)

This cleaning process is full in 5 to 9 consecutively coupled chambers, in which air currents and fast-running spiked rollers blow up the hair (= blow). Heavier hair (bristle, prickly hair)
collect on the ground. From the last blow chamber the hair falls completely cleaned and mixed in the form of a wide uniformly streaming in the ready transport car, which brings it to the Facherei / Folding Department. (right side caption HM 20)




#1817 Mayser Hutfabrik

Posted by habigman on 06 November 2017 - 11:10 PM in German Hat Companies

Echter Mayser "Spezial", 59cm, Crown 5 1/2 inches, Brim 2 1/2 inches probably later 1950s. This is a really great looking later Homburg. Also in near mint condition.

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#1816 Heinrich Sandmann

Posted by habigman on 03 November 2017 - 11:12 PM in Austrian Hat Companies

Sandmann Wien XV, Wool, measures 58cm, Crown 6 inches, Brim Curled 2 inches maybe 1930s. The Wool Felts finish is coarse and reminds of some of the Austrian and German Wool Stiff Felts I have that are from the same time period and earlier. The felt has a stiffness to it but still easily dry creases. Also uniquer long bow length is interesting. I really like finding olde Wool Soft Felt hats like this one and the other Sandmann Wien XV.

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Open Crown

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Natural Light

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#1815 Heinrich Sandmann

Posted by habigman on 02 November 2017 - 05:41 PM in Austrian Hat Companies

Sandmann Wien XV, measures 58cm, Crown 6 inches, Brim Curled 2 inches maybe 1930s. I believe it's a multi color Wool or a Wool - Fur blend. The felt is really fantastic (colors, finish, hand) most likely a Flamand. It doesn't have any paper label and I believe it had a crown patch at one time. Heinrich Sandmann was Chairman of the Austrian and Vienna Hat Makers associations (as of 1926) but I haven't been able to find any other details. This hat is part one of a two Sandmann Wien XV find. I was contacted by the seller (from Vienna who I have purchased a number of hats from in the past) during by trip so I was able to pick up the hats along the way.

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Open Crown

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Natural Light

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#1814 Johann Hückel´s Söhne - Hückel Hutfabrik Weilheim

Posted by habigman on 06 October 2017 - 06:18 PM in Austrian Hat Companies

J. Hückel´s Söhne "Alpha - Seal Velour", French Point 4 probably mid 1930s. The black Velour felt (very difficult to photograph, absorbs light) is really fantastic (perfect condition) with a beautiful Alpha quality Seal Velour finish. This hat came from the same seller as the J.Hückel´s Söhne "Paltin" and most likely belonged to the same original owner. It also came with an original Hückel box.

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The following photographed really shows the quality of the Alpha quality Seal Velour (close sheared with high gloss).

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#1813 Johann Hückel´s Söhne - Hückel Hutfabrik Weilheim

Posted by habigman on 05 October 2017 - 05:10 PM in Austrian Hat Companies

Continued.

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#1812 Johann Hückel´s Söhne - Hückel Hutfabrik Weilheim

Posted by habigman on 05 October 2017 - 04:56 PM in Austrian Hat Companies


J.Hückel´s Söhne "Paltin", 55cm probably mid 1930s. The Velour on this one is really amazing. This hat came with original box.

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#1811 Brabant

Posted by habigman on 28 September 2017 - 11:54 PM in German Hat Companies

Brabant Echter Haarhut, 58cm probably mid 1960s. No paper label / company mark and the German trade mark search came up empty. I have come across a couple of these in the past. It has a classic form for a later Homburg.

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Natural Light

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#1810 Johann Hückel´s Söhne - Hückel Hutfabrik Weilheim

Posted by habigman on 26 September 2017 - 08:50 PM in Austrian Hat Companies

Hückel Weilheim "Derby", 58cm probably later 1950s. I really like the form and high side dents. Also really like the ribbon felt color contrast. Hückel Weilheim made fantastic looking Homburgs.

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Natural Light

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#1809 Rockel Hutfabrik

Posted by habigman on 19 September 2017 - 09:26 PM in German Hat Companies

"Echter Rockel Hut" Rockel Alsfeld, Kraemer & Van Elsberg, G.M.B.H. Köln probably late 1920s or 1930s.  I really like marketing / sales items like this placard.  The placard has an patented enamel coating and a unique folding stand.  Kraemer & Van Elsberg, G.M.B.H. Köln were known for such enamel placards.  I also really like the Rockel logo and "Echter Rockel Hut" typography.
 
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This placard is covered with Simili(Simulated)-Enamel. D.R. Patent. Often cleaning with a soft, damp cloth gives the placard its original appearance. Kraemer & van Elsberg, G.rn.b.H., Cologne
 
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Same "Echter Rockel Hut" placard hanging (under the Rockel & Co. sign) in the Rockel Hat trade show display.



#1808 K&R Lembert Hutfabrik

Posted by habigman on 19 September 2017 - 08:32 PM in German Hat Companies

Lembert "Extra", 58cm probably later 1950s early 1960s.  The brim has massive flange which is interesting.  

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Natural Light
 
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Original owner Alfons Birkle I wearing the hat. Photo courtesy of his son of Alfons Birkle II.

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#1807 H. Pohl Leipzig Cardboard Factory for Hat, Caps

Posted by habigman on 14 September 2017 - 12:11 AM in German Hat Companies

HutHase (Hat Hare) Dresden Chemnitz Leipzig, H. Pohl Leipzig W-31 "Silka Carton D.R.G.N."

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J. Hückel ´s Söhne "Flexible" "Seal Velour" made for HutHase (the case was most likely made for a Silk Top Hat)

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#1806 H. Pohl Leipzig Cardboard Factory for Hat, Caps

Posted by habigman on 14 September 2017 - 12:09 AM in German Hat Companies

H. Pohl Advertisement (Dehazet Supplier Directory For The Entire Hat Industry And Related Businesses, 1928)

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H. Pohl Advertisments (Deutsche Hutmacher-Zeitung / German Hatmaker News, 1913)

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#1805 R&M Wegener Hutfabrik

Posted by habigman on 09 September 2017 - 09:21 PM in German Hat Companies

Wegener "Seal", 60 cm, Open Crown 6 inches, Brim 2 1/2 inches probably mid 1950s. I don't believe this one had a liner so missing the crown patch. The Felt is a very nice Gray color with a fantastic Chamois finish.

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Here are a couple photos of me wearing it outside. I think it looks better in sun light.

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#1804 Milz & Co. Lindenberg I/Allgäu (Bayern) Strohhut Fabrik

Posted by habigman on 08 September 2017 - 06:21 PM in German Hat Companies

Milz & Co. Lindenberg I/Allgäu (Bayern) Strohhut Fabrik (Straw Hat Factory) Dampfbetrieb u. Elektr. Kraftanlagen (Steam and Electric Power Plants), May 12, 1915. Mayser Ulm purchased the company in 1929 and it became known as Mayser Milz & Co. where they made Straw and Soft Felt Hats. Lindenberg was one of the Straw Hat making centers of Germany. Mayser Hat headquarters was moved to Lindenberg in the early 1990s after the closure of Mayser Ulm.

(Click on Photo to Expand)

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#1803 Mayser Hutfabrik

Posted by habigman on 08 September 2017 - 06:20 PM in German Hat Companies

Milz & Co. Lindenberg I/Allgäu (Bayern) Strohhut Fabrik (Straw Hat Factory) Dampfbetrieb u. Elektr. Kraftanlagen (Steam and Electric Power Plants), May 12, 1915. Mayser Ulm purchased the company in 1929 and it became known as Mayser Milz & Co. where they made Straw and Soft Felt Hats. Lindenberg was one of the Straw Hat making centers of Germany. Mayser Hat headquarters was moved to Lindenberg in the early 1990s after the closure of Mayser Ulm.
(Click on Photo to Expand)

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#1802 Borsalino (German Market)

Posted by habigman on 08 September 2017 - 03:58 PM in German Hat Companies

Echter Borsalino, French Point 6, Date Stamped November 1952. This Homburg belongs to MeanEyeMatt on the FL.

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#1801 Mayser Hutfabrik

Posted by habigman on 01 September 2017 - 12:18 PM in German Hat Companies

Mayser "Spezial", 58cm probably late 1950s early 1960s.  This one belongs to NewJack on the FL.
 
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#1800 C. G. Wilke Hutfabrik Guben

Posted by habigman on 29 August 2017 - 05:21 AM in German Hat Companies

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1918-1929 , Panorama of CG Wilke.

http://gubin.fotopol....html?o=b169589



#1799 Anton Fischer, Guben

Posted by habigman on 29 August 2017 - 05:15 AM in German Hat Companies

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1910-1920 , Another hats factory - Anton Fischer Haar- und Velourhut-Fabrik. The 1915 guide indicates that its location on Uferstraße 26, the buildings on the street side have been completely rebuilt, but the smaller ones (inner ones) overlap with the existing "Achenbach" visible on the right.

http://gubin.fotopol...ium_Guben_Gubin