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Everything posted by habigman

  1. This is from Österreichische Hut Zeitung (Austrian Hat News) December 31, 1937. This is a partial response to a survey sent to the participants of the Autumn 1937 Vienna Homburg Hat Propaganda. As previously mentioned the Austrian Hat Industry became retail customer oriented around the mid 1930s. See previous posts for more details. Experiences with the Homburg Propaganda. Judgments from Interested Parties. As we announced in our December 10th issue, the Men' Hat Propaganda Committee has sent a survey to all parties involved in Vienna with the request that they comment on the Autumn propaganda as such and on its effects on hat consumption and make suggestions for them Spring propaganda already in preparation to go. As delightful proof of the great interest that Homburg propaganda is encountering, it should be noted that the Propaganda Committee has already received a large number of responses to this survey. Some of these judgments or suggestions, which almost without exception are in a sense favorable to propaganda, are published below: The first question, "Were you satisfied with the success of the propaganda?", Was answered almost without exception with a clear: "Yes". The company Peter Dobesch, Vienna, V., writes, among other things: "In any case, spring propaganda is essential" and ".. - Another verdict is: "A common fashion direction stimulates the uninterested in the republic and consumption." - Greater concentration! Participation in all retail business! " - What Mr. Wilhelm Doktor, Vienna, XVI., Speaks about it is quite haunting. He was "completely" satisfied with the propaganda, but made the experience, which is certainly not very pleasant for the industry, "that the same colleagues have to raise the funds again and again" and I finally said very correctly: "Once you have the resources (for Propaganda), do not cite by name, but publish those who, without doing anything, criticize and 'want to belittle the work of others and ridicule them. "When asked which hat to propose for the next propaganda, Mr. Doktor answered as follows:" After careful consideration: the ones recommended by the Propaganda Committee, "for which confidence the Committee would certainly thank Mr. Doktor. - The response from a company that was only won over to this good cause by the Homburg propaganda is encouraging; it is the company Alois Pichler, Vienna, IV, which describes briefly and aptly: "Homburg Hut has taken action" - Dr. Heinrich Ita says for the retail business of the Ita company: "Serving the customers was simplified because they mostly knew what she wanted to have presented. The stock quantity could be reduced because of the concentration on a certain type. I propose: to do collective advertising always for a certain fashion, be it a new shape or just a new color Hat fashion, like the rest of the fashion, has to change every season. " For summer propaganda, Dr. Ita a straw hat. It is interesting that a manufacturer of felt hats is ready to promote the straw hat; This evidently arises from the realization that the male public should be educated in a fashionable way to always wear hats at the right time of the year, that more felt hats will be sold when the gentlemen are used to them, but never at all, including that hot season not to go without a hat. - The United Band Fabriken A. 0. was satisfied with the propaganda and noted a somewhat "increased need" for tapes. The company "Halake Heinrich Haber says that it (the propaganda) was functional and attracted the attention of the affluent public ". Mr. Gustav Löisch, Vienna, XIV., Says that he was not satisfied with the turnover in November, but he says: “The propaganda reminded your audience that there is hat fashion. I am in favor of collective propaganda absolutely being made twice, because a complete success can be expected not from one time, but only through continued demonstration of the hat: '- Mr S. Weinstock, Vienna, X .. thinks Although: "Homburg cannot be said to have been a success"; but he is in favor of the continuation of the propaganda through posters and press and, like all the other cited Firms, has again put his little on the lookout. The Josef Kainz company, Vienna , V., was satisfied with the propaganda, only advocates an earlier start. We will publish further correspondence received in our next issue.
  2. This is from Österreichische Hut Zeitung (Austrian Hat News) December 31, 1937, Pages 1,2. This editorial is from Anton Pichler Hutfabrik/Hat Company, Graz, Austria. The editorial discusses the Viennese "Homburghut / Homburg Hat propaganda campaign of 1937. PROPAGANDA FOR THE PROPAGANDA. By Ing. Anton Pichler (Anton Pichler Company, Graz). For New Year's, every newspaper wished its readers all the best. l do not want the readers of the "Hut Zeitung / Hat News" to have a better wish than to take these lines very seriously, in the interest of everyone in the hat industry. The "Homburg Propaganda 1937" died away with a good tone (the harmonic of industry, trade and commerce) - long live the "? Propaganda 1938"! The question mark is there in two ways: 1. Much cooperation of the three mentioned factors will bring about the propaganda in 1938 and, 2. If it comes about, which one: will the propaganda committee give us? l think that the whole industry was very satisfied with the way Homburg propaganda was carried out, that thanks to the committee that put so much effort into it, at least in this form, that it was supported to the best of our ability in any future propaganda by not excluding yourself from the contribution payment and everyone pushing the propagated hat right from the start without waiting for the hat to be "requested". This is the only way to expect full success, just as we can only experience a material upturn in the industry through constant propaganda. However, unlike the committee, I am of the opinion that for the beginning, especially for financial reasons, only a one-time propaganda would be advisable in the year. In connection with the Homburg propaganda, I would like to mention that several Viennese retailers told me that this season, which was under the sign of Homburg ", the public had deliberately punched in, was less secular and less selective, so with a smaller warehouse and less loss of time same and even larger sales were achieved. Incidentally, I was also a witness to what is probably a not uncommon occurrence in a Viennese hat maker's shop: a customer appears and requests a Homburg hat; after a while he tries and explains that Homburg is not to be seen (which was certainly just a matter of habit and imagination). After doing a bit of back and forth, the customer finally chooses a natural cut hat and obtains the following: "I came here only because of the" Homburg Hat ", but if the Homburg doesn't suit me but I still buy a new hat ". This proves that propaganda has aroused people's interest in all hats. Even in Graz, which was outside the propaganda, the Homburg hat quickly became popular. All the leading retail stores had the Homburg poster** on display and the demand for this hat was surprisingly high in the autumn business. It can clearly be seen from this that Viennese propaganda is also having a positive effect on the province. I heard about the not uninteresting suggestion to use propaganda in summer with a strong straw hat. I think this suggestion is daring, but maybe it would be good that it would be very important that men's hats were worn again all year round. As a result, the hat could only be won by the public. What you have more respect for, you add more value and ultimately spend more money on it. In any case, I think it is important that only hat propaganda is made. The propagated hat must also have the correct name. "Homburg" was good and pragmatic - the audience inevitably had to introduce something. Names such as: Naturschnitt Hut/Natural Cut Hat were bad, Rastlhut/ Rastl Hat etc. In my opinion, names such as B. Schnapper, Melone (Stiff Felt) etc. Short and sweet the name must impress with a fixed term in the mind and hypnotize the audience. So we are all clear about the importance of continuing collective advertising. Their establishment depends on the goodwill of the involved journey. I express my heartfelt hope that, in this regard, the interested associations may shake hands over all difficulties, as the prosperity of an industry is largely due to the understanding bridging of the professional groups, which are usually only apparent in any case. ** Homburg Hut/Homburg Hat, Die Neue Form/The New Form, Der Wiener Hutmacher/ The Vienna Hat Maker Cardboard Display + Dermotta Wien Homburg from my collection.
  3. This is from Österreichische Hut Zeitung (Austrian Hat News) December 10, 1937, Page 10. It's very interesting that the Austrian Hat industry had a propaganda campaign to bring back the Homburg Hat. This is the first time I have encountered the term "Homburg" being used by the Austrian or German Hat Industries. For some reason I never looked close at these December 1937 editions. Possible the Austrian Hat Industry became more fashion oriented (to help increase sales) and that could be the reason they dropped "macher" from the newspaper name (not sure when this occurred in the 1930s). "Present and Future of Men's Hat Propaganda. A new Men's Hat. A peaceful revolution was taking place before our eyes: The "Homburg" has started to clean up the long-standing fashion of the Snap Brim felt - it dominates the city scape this winter on the heads of the men. All other hat shapes had to give way to the Homburg, only the Stiff Bowler Hat could hold its own --- for certain occasions - alongside the winner. It was "discovered" about 50 years ago, then returned at frequent intervals to reappear for the first time THIS YEAR year in the post-war period since 1918. The cradle of its last renaissance is in Vienna, which the Homburg is now sent all over the world. Its colors are brown, gray, dark blue, and - for the evening - black. O. H. S.
  4. J. Hückel´s Söhne "Plume", 55 cm, possibly mid 1930s. This Stiff Felt belongs to Heart Felt on the FL.
  5. Album für (for) Mayser 's Neuheitens (New Releases), Mai (May) 1914, from the Gotisches Haus (Gothic House) Bad Homburg , Germany hat collection. (This is a large image so you have to click on it to see the details. Very interesting Bow designs and of course great hats from May 1914. Also has the "Art/Form" and "Farbe/Color" numbers) "Art/Form" is "Form" in English. The "Art/Form" number is 5 digits for Soft Felts and all start with 34 (1914). The "Art/Form" number is 4 digits for Stiff Felts and the only examples starts with 48 (1914). The numbers increment because here are some later examples (probably at least WWII era). "Art/Form" 49703 (Possible Oldest Soft Felt) - "Art/Form" 34846 (First Hat, Upper Left) = 14857 (Difference Since 1914) I wasn't able to match any of the older Mayser Soft Felt "Farbe/Color" numbers but I will check some of the later Soft Felts. 1937 date stamped envelope from a Dutch Mayser distributor (N.V. Hoedenmaatschappij, Bussum). The Mayser logo on the envelope matches the above sweatband logo. "Art/Form" 5157 (Possibly Oldest Stiff Felt) - "Art/Form" 4854 (Bottom Center) = 303 (Difference Since 1914) There isn't a "Farbe/Color" number for "Art/Form" 4854 because Black is "Farbe 1" for all Mayser Soft and Stiff Felt Hats I have encountered. Here is some additional information. "Art/Form" numbers for October 1931 are 46657, 45023. Mayser's Hutfabrik G. M. B. H. Receipt for Felix Fenn Dresden, October 24, 1931 Possibly an older Soft Felt with a lower number "Art/Form" 42387. Possibly from the same time period as the Mayser / Johann Zehme Stiff Felt posted above. This hat belongs to Huthase on the FL.
  6. Some great background information from Wolfgang (ErWeSa). To your picture: the men shown there have had their medical examinations for the army and were found fit to serve in the army - this was celebrated by putting these decorations on their hats and suits (and by drinking lots of beer). There is an article in German here: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Musterung#/media/Datei:1912-xx-xx_Josef_Riedl_(1889-1948)_from_Frankenfels_at_Musterung,_Austria.jpg and here: https://www.hna.de/lokales/schwalmstadt/blumen-waffen-1316911.html Here are some more photos: https://www.ansichtskartenhandel.at/ansichtskarten-motive-thematik/geschichte-politik-militaer/1-2-weltkrieg/512936-foto-ak-ww2-stellung-musterung-maenner-ziehharmonika-gruppenbild/a-1004293524/ The custom still exists, particularly in the Tyrol-area, see here: http://www.gemeinsam-fuer-mieming.at/2012/05/musterung-des-jahrganges-1994/
  7. Hut - Schick, Otto H. Schick Hat Maker Vienna, Shows His Handcrafted Hats PRICE LIST: (My Note: In Austrian Schilling "S") Casual Hat, Soft Felt For Snapping S 86.50 Homburg, For The Evening S 128.— "Camber 50", As Day And Evening Hat S 86.50 and 128.— Sports Or Tourist Hats Fine, Light Felt S 86.50 Loden Hats (Waterproof) For Hunting, Fishing And Tourism S 64.— Velour S 178.— Original Ausseer as as a proper headgear with a suit S 64.— and 86.50 Stylized Ausseer as as a proper headgear with a suit S 64.— and 86.50 Lamberg Hats as as a proper headgear with a suit S 64.— and 86.50 Schladminger With Felt Ribbon S 55.— Boys' Hats From S 29.50 Women's Hats For Hunting And Sports Made Of Fine Felt From S 67.— Hat Repairs. Individual And Custom-made Products On Request. OLIVE LAMBERG WORN BY CHAMBER ACTOR HERMANN THIMIG IN STEIRER SUIT MADE BY HAND, OTTO SCHICK HAT MAKER IN VIENNA SOFT, CURVED, SLATE GRAY TROTTER HAT WORN BY CHAMBER ACTOR FRED LIEWEHR MADE BY HAND, OTTO SCHICK HAT MAKER IN VIENNA PRIMABALLERINA THE VIENNA STATE OPERA JULIA DRAPAL WITH ONE BLACK-GREEN LADIES LAMBERG MADE BY HAND, OTTO SCHICK HAT MAKER IN VIENNA STATE THEATER ACTOR 0. W. FISCHER WITH DARK HOMBURG MADE BY HAND, OTTO SCHICK HAT MAKER IN VIENNA THE CAMBER 50 WORN BY ACTOR EGON V. JORDAN MADE BY HAND, OTTO SCHICK HAT MAKER IN VIENNA THE DAY AND EVENING HAT OF THIS WINTER SEASON. MOUSE GRAY, MAROON AND BLACK My Notes: The catalog comes from the estate of the former prima ballerina at the Vienna State Opera, Julia Drapal. The catalog is probably from the mid 1950s. In 1955 1 United States Dollar = 26 Austrian Schillings.
  8. Flower Trachten Hat, Bischweiler, Alace, 1880 From Alsace so in German and French.
  9. Thanks! This is a valuable resource. Sorry I didn't get back to yet on the Arbeits book. I will send you an email shortly. I also have some Austrian Hat Makers Newspapers that you can look through.
  10. Lital Hat Box. This box belongs to Deborah (Dorette). Here are her comments. "I included a picture of the triangular hat box with Lital logo. My great-grandfather had a patent for it. "
  11. Lital "The New Yorker" "Expressly Made for Lital Vienna". This hat belongs to Deborah (Dorette).
  12. J. Hückel´s Söhne "Superior Velour", French Point Size 6, possibly mid 1930s. NOS condition and made for the French Market. This beauty belongs to Stefan on the FL.
  13. Hello Dorette, I was just looking for a possible company mark. A paper label usually has the Hat Company, Quality, Form, Color and Size. I don't download files. I use my Flickr account. What size are the files?
  14. This is a visual tour of the Ebreichsdorfer Heimatmuseum (S. & J. Fraenkel Wien Hat Factory / Ebreichsdorfer Felt Hat Factory) which I visited March 10th 2017. https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/301-ebreichsdorfer-heimatmuseum-s-j-fraenkel-hat-factory-ebreichsdorfer-felt-hat-factory-march-10-2017/
  15. The Big Factory Stefan Esders Wien, VII., Mariahilferstrasse 18 (1917)
  16. Berlin Gubener Hat Factory, formerly A. Cohn, Guben, 1913
  17. C. G. Wilke Hutfabrik Guben, possibly Early 1900s
  18. C. G. Wilkes Hutfabrik und Villa Wike, Guben, Post Card, 1913
  19. "Böhmovy Klobouky" Display Mannequin possibly 1930s. This is a seller photo from March 2018. I regret passing on it.
  20. Hutfabrik Brüder Böhm, Wien VII, Schottenfeldgasse (1950s) I received these back in December 2018.
  21. My friend Radek Polach is now the leader of the August Hückel's Villas Restoration Project. I received the following article / videos from Radek. Experts Determine What Came Be Saved In Hückel's Villas (Article and Video) https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&tab=rT&sl=cs&tl=en&u=https://polar.cz/zpravy/novojicinsko/novy-jicin/11000019459/odbornici-urcili-co-z-novojicinskych-huckelovych-vil-lze-zachranit The Guild of Hatter Masters was founded in Nový Jičín 390 years ago (Article and Video) https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&tab=rT&sl=cs&tl=en&u=https://polar.cz/zpravy/novojicinsko/novy-jicin/11000019483/cech-kloboucnickych-mistru-vznikl-v-novem-jicine-pred-390-let
  22. Mayser's Hutfabrik G. M. B. H. Receipt for Felix Fenn Dresden, October 24, 1931. Notice the size breakdown (handwritten) for each model. Here is a Mayser's "Orion" from the same time period. https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/3-mayser-hutfabrik/?do=findComment&comment=1482 The following is very interesting. Extract from the Sales, Delivery and Payment terms of the Central Association of Hat Manufacturers Germany e. V. in dealings with Men's Hat Retail. (1/1/1928) Invoices are payable in gold marks (§ 3 Coins Act of August 30, 1924. 1: 2790 kg fine gold) 30 days after the end of the delivery month with a 2% discount or 60 days after the end of the delivery month: net without discount. Respect days are not granted. - Bills of exchange can be taken in payment, then a minimum discount rate of 2% above the Reichsbank discount for bills of up to three months, a rate of 4% per Reichsbank discount for bills of exchange with a longer term and for bills on secondary places. Deliveries from the 26th of the month from are considered deliveries of the following month 3% are credited to Reichsbank discount for advance interest for advance payment, and 3% to Reichsbank discount for default interest if the target is exceeded. Cash account is not granted if older invoices are still unpaid. Small deviations from the delivery quantity due to manufacturing defects do not have to be delivered later. Made-to-measure hats and orders for up to three pieces per shape and color are subject to a surcharge of 10%; A width of more than 60 cm is 20%. If the manufacturer is in error, before the customer can assert any other right, a grace period of 18 working days must be set (registered letter). The place of performance is the location of the manufacturer's branch. The place of jurisdiction for claims by the manufacturer is also the Berlin-Mitte courts. The group of detailed manufacturers of the Central Association of Hat Manufacturers in Germany E.V. K. Bronnold, Gebr. Gattel, J. Hückel 's Söhne, Mayser's Hutfabrik.G.m.b.H., Gebr. Messerschmidt, Ph. Möckel, Rehfus & Cie, A. Riedel , C.G. Wilke. Mayser's Hutfabrik G. M. B. H. Receipt for F. Fenn Dresden Cotta, April 3, 1933
  23. Mayser "Perl", 54 cm possibly early 1950s. I don't believe I have seen a "Perl" before. This hat belongs to Garrett on the FL. He will send to Black Sheep Hat Works.
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