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habigman

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Posts posted by habigman

  1. Carl Weyrich Wien possibly mid 1890s - early 1900s.  

    "Emperor Francis Joseph I of Austria - A Personal Bowler Hat, Carl Weyrich III. Fasangasse 17 Wien, black wool felt, silk repp band and rim trimmed with silk repp band, leather sweat band, silk lining, on the inside manufacturer’s mark "Carl Weyrich III. Fasangasse 17 Wien" with imperial double eagle and the emperor’s gold-embossed initials "FJI.", 31.5 x 26 cm, c. 1900, (Lu)

    Personal bowler hat of the emperor, worn in civil dress. There are several photos of the emperor showing him with this hat model. Especially well-known is the image of Emperor Francis Joseph I with his grandnephew Archduke Charles Francis Joseph in the year 1894 in a park at Cannes.

    The Realized Price: EUR  25,300"

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    You can see more detailed photos here.

    https://www.dorotheum.com/en/l/6887923/?tm_source=barnebys&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=barnebys&utm_content=2020-10-19

    If scroll down to Lot 86 you can see the Realized Price.

    https://www.dorotheum.com/en/a/72373/#6887923

    I couldn't find any detailed in information on Carl / Karl Weyrich so can't say if the Stiff Felt was sourced or made in house.  The physical location on Google Maps is retail today but there could have been some type of small production.  Carl / Karl Weyrich doesn't come up in any of Austrian Hat Maker News member lists.  He is listed on page 25 of the Austrian Industry Guide (1926).

    https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/217-austrian-hat-industry-guide-1926/

  2. Gärner Hüte Wien "Record" Manufactured by J. Heinr. Ita Wien, 59cm, Real Fur Felt probably 1930s or 1940s.  I assume Gärner Hüte Wien is the same as Gärner Wien who also made their own hats.  I have an earlier Gärner Wien Wool Stiff Felt.  The paper label has a "U.F." which doesn't point to J. Heinr. Ita Wien so could be a Gärner Hüte Wien label.  I couldn't find any company that matches those initials.  The "F" could be Fabrik (Factory) but no guess yet regarding the "U".   I really like form of this one and also the ribbon with  +  bow design. 

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  3. S. & J. Fraenkel Wien, Ebreichsdorfer Filzhutfabrik / Extra Extra Wiener Hutindustrie "Wiener Extra Velour", measures ~ 58cm, possibly early 1930s.  I would like thank Brent on the FL for offering this great pre 1940 Austrian Velour to me.  The thick Metal Gray Velour is really fantastic but I will have to work with it more to get a smoother finish.  The offset bow is a unique feature.  I think it was probably worn brim up as shown because of the over welt.  I only knew this Velour was made by "S. & J. Fraenkel Wien, Ebreichsdorfer Filzhutfabrik" by the paper label.  Exported to the Italian market so it's good know that they used "Wiener Hutindustrie" for future reference.

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    C. Sartoris via Roma 19-21, Portici di via XX Settembre 240, Genova

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    (Genoese yearbook administrative, commercial, industrial and maritime guide etc. 1936)

    Sartoris C. via Roma 19-21 r. Branch: portici di via XX Settembre 240 r. Telephone 51-804, see special notice.

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    Open Crown

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  4. Heinrich Balke Bremen "Prima Weser Hut", 58 cm, Crown Open 6 inches, Brim 3 inches, possibly late 1920s.  This a Wool Soft Felt Hat with Back Bow and luckily the Crown Tip Patch is still present.  I really like finding old Wool Soft Felts and I waited a long time for this one to arrive because of shipping issues.

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    Open Crown

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    Natural Light

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  5. Wegener "Em / 7", 58cm, Brim 2 1/4 inches, Crown Open 5 1/2 inches, 3.00 ounces, NOS condition, possibly late 1930s early 1940s.  The greenish blue felt is very light weight  and pliable. "Em / 7" might be related to the felt weight.  The bow design, form and dimensions are very similar to some later 1930s and early 1940s German market hats. Also the sweatband seam and ribbed ribbon bow design are similar to WWII era and older Wegener Hats. 

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    Open Crown

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    Natural Light

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    Hut - Braun, Peter Braun (est. 1598) is still in business but not at the address on the hat (Bahnhofstr. 16.) which adds mystery to the dating.  I will have to see if I can find why this is the case.

    https://hut-mode.de/portfolio/hut-braun/

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  6. J. Hückel´s Söhne "Flexible" "Rauh", French Point 6, possibly late 1930s very early 1940s.  This is the first "Rauh" quality that I have encounter.  It's all around fantastic and in great condition. 

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    Hat From Professional Enterprise/Plant

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    Natural Light

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    Title:  Brousek   Publisher:  Nagl, 1878

       

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     Enjoying the best reputation! Hat factory
    Jindřich Kris
    in Prague, Stará poštovská street Number 316-1.

    recommends its best products in felt and silk hats at the cheapest factory prices in large and small.  Free of charge price list. There are significant benefits to sellers. 862

  7. This is from Österreichische Hut Zeitung (Austrian Hat News) December 31, 1937. This is a partial response to a survey sent to the participants of the Autumn 1937 Vienna Homburg Hat Propaganda.  As previously mentioned the Austrian Hat Industry became retail customer oriented around the mid 1930s.  See previous posts for more details.

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    Experiences with the Homburg Propaganda.

    Judgments from Interested Parties.

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    As we announced in our December 10th issue, the Men' Hat Propaganda Committee has sent a survey to all parties involved in Vienna with the request that they comment on the Autumn propaganda as such and on its effects on hat consumption and make suggestions for them Spring propaganda already in preparation to go. As delightful proof of the great interest that Homburg propaganda is encountering, it should be noted that the Propaganda Committee has already received a large number of responses to this survey. Some of these judgments or suggestions, which almost without exception are in a sense favorable to propaganda, are published below:

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    The first question, "Were you satisfied with the success of the propaganda?", Was answered almost without exception with a clear: "Yes". The company Peter Dobesch, Vienna, V., writes, among other things: "In any case, spring propaganda is essential" and ".. - Another verdict is: "A common fashion direction stimulates the uninterested in the republic and consumption." - Greater concentration! Participation in all retail business! " - What Mr. Wilhelm Doktor, Vienna, XVI., Speaks about it is quite haunting. He was "completely" satisfied with the propaganda, but made the experience, which is certainly not very pleasant for the industry, "that the same colleagues have to raise the funds again and again" and I finally said very correctly: "Once you have the resources (for Propaganda), do not cite by name, but publish those who, without doing anything, criticize and 'want to belittle the work of others and ridicule them. "When asked which hat to propose for the next propaganda, Mr. Doktor answered as follows:" After careful consideration: the ones recommended by the Propaganda Committee, "for which confidence the Committee would certainly thank Mr. Doktor.

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    - The response from a company that was only won over to this good cause by the Homburg propaganda is encouraging; it is the company Alois Pichler, Vienna, IV, which describes briefly and aptly: "Homburg Hut has taken action" - Dr. Heinrich Ita says for the retail business of the Ita company: "Serving the customers was simplified because they mostly knew what she wanted to have presented. The stock quantity could be reduced because of the concentration on a certain type. I propose: to do collective advertising always for a certain fashion, be it a new shape or just a new color Hat fashion, like the rest of the fashion, has to change every season. " For summer propaganda, Dr. Ita a straw hat. It is interesting that a manufacturer of felt hats is ready to promote the straw hat; This evidently arises from the realization that the male public should be educated in a fashionable way to always wear hats at the right time of the year, that more felt hats will be sold when the gentlemen are used to them, but never at all, including that hot season not to go without a hat. - The United Band Fabriken A. 0. was satisfied with the propaganda and noted a somewhat "increased need" for tapes. The company "Halake Heinrich Haber says that it (the propaganda) was functional and attracted the attention of the affluent public ". Mr. Gustav Löisch, Vienna, XIV., Says that he was not satisfied with the turnover in November, but he says: “The propaganda reminded your audience that there is hat fashion. I am in favor of collective propaganda absolutely being made twice, because a complete success can be expected not from one time, but only through continued demonstration of the hat: '- Mr S. Weinstock, Vienna, X .. thinks Although: "Homburg cannot be said to have been a success"; but he is in favor of the continuation of the propaganda through posters and press and, like all the other cited Firms, has again put his little on the lookout.
    The Josef Kainz company, Vienna , V., was satisfied with the propaganda, only advocates an earlier start.

    We will publish further correspondence received in our next issue.

  8. This is from Österreichische Hut Zeitung (Austrian Hat News) December 31, 1937, Pages 1,2.  This editorial is from Anton Pichler Hutfabrik/Hat Company, Graz, Austria.  The editorial discusses the Viennese "Homburghut / Homburg Hat propaganda campaign of 1937.    

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    PROPAGANDA FOR THE PROPAGANDA.

    By Ing. Anton Pichler (Anton Pichler Company, Graz).

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    For New Year's, every newspaper wished its readers all the best. l do not want the readers of the "Hut Zeitung / Hat News" to have a better wish than to take these lines very seriously, in the interest of everyone in the hat industry.

    The "Homburg Propaganda 1937" died away with a good tone (the harmonic of industry, trade and commerce) - long live the "? Propaganda 1938"!

    The question mark is there in two ways:

    1. Much cooperation of the three mentioned factors will bring about the propaganda in 1938 and,
    2. If it comes about, which one: will the propaganda committee give us?

    l think that the whole industry was very satisfied with the way Homburg propaganda was carried out, that thanks to the committee that put so much effort into it, at least in this form, that it was supported to the best of our ability in any future propaganda by not excluding yourself from the contribution payment and everyone pushing the propagated hat right from the start without waiting for the hat to be "requested".  This is the only way to expect full success, just as we can only experience a material upturn in the industry through constant propaganda. However, unlike the committee, I am of the opinion that for the beginning, especially for financial reasons, only a one-time propaganda would be advisable in the year.

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    In connection with the Homburg propaganda, I would like to mention that several Viennese retailers told me that this season, which was under the sign of Homburg ", the public had deliberately punched in, was less secular and less selective, so with a smaller warehouse and less loss of time same and even larger sales were achieved.

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    Incidentally, I was also a witness to what is probably a not uncommon occurrence in a Viennese hat maker's shop: a customer appears and requests a Homburg hat; after a while he tries and explains that Homburg is not to be seen (which was certainly just a matter of habit and imagination). After doing a bit of back and forth, the customer finally chooses a natural cut hat and obtains the following: "I came here only because of the" Homburg Hat ", but if the Homburg doesn't suit me but I still buy a new hat ". This proves that propaganda has aroused people's interest in all hats.

    Even in Graz, which was outside the propaganda, the Homburg hat quickly became popular. All the leading retail stores had the Homburg poster** on display and the demand for this hat was surprisingly high in the autumn business. It can clearly be seen from this that Viennese propaganda is also having a positive effect on the province.

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    I heard about the not uninteresting suggestion to use propaganda in summer with a strong straw hat.  I think this suggestion is daring, but maybe it would be good that it would be very important that men's hats were worn again all year round. As a result, the hat could only be won by the public. What you have more respect for, you add more value and ultimately spend more money on it.

    In any case, I think it is important that only hat propaganda is made. The propagated hat must also have the correct name. "Homburg" was good and pragmatic - the audience inevitably had to introduce something. 
    Names such as: Naturschnitt Hut/Natural Cut Hat were bad, Rastlhut/ Rastl Hat etc.  In my opinion, names such as B. Schnapper, Melone (Stiff Felt) etc.

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    Short and sweet the name must impress with a fixed term in the mind and hypnotize the audience.

    So we are all clear about the importance of continuing collective advertising. Their establishment depends on the goodwill of the involved journey.

    I express my heartfelt hope that, in this regard, the interested associations may shake hands over all difficulties, as the prosperity of an industry is largely due to the understanding bridging of the professional groups, which are usually only apparent in any case.

    ** Homburg Hut/Homburg Hat, Die Neue Form/The New Form, Der Wiener Hutmacher/ The Vienna Hat Maker Cardboard Display + Dermotta Wien Homburg from my collection.  

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  9. This is from Österreichische Hut Zeitung (Austrian Hat News) December 10, 1937, Page 10. It's very interesting that the Austrian Hat industry had a propaganda campaign to bring back the Homburg Hat.  This is the first time I have encountered the term "Homburg" being used by the Austrian or German Hat Industries. For some reason I never looked close at these December 1937 editions.  Possible the Austrian Hat Industry became more fashion oriented (to help increase sales) and that could be the reason they dropped "macher" from the newspaper name (not sure when this occurred in the 1930s).

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    "Present and Future of Men's Hat Propaganda.

    A new Men's Hat.

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    A peaceful revolution was taking place before our eyes: The "Homburg" has started to clean up the long-standing fashion of the Snap Brim felt - it dominates the city scape this winter on the heads of the men. All other hat shapes had to give way to the Homburg, only the Stiff Bowler Hat could hold its own --- for certain occasions - alongside the winner. It was "discovered" about 50 years ago, then returned at frequent intervals to reappear for the first time THIS YEAR year in the post-war period since 1918. The cradle of its last renaissance is in Vienna, which the Homburg is now sent all over the world.

    Its colors are brown, gray, dark blue, and - for the evening - black.

    O. H. S.

  10. Album für (for) Mayser 's Neuheitens (New Releases), Mai (May) 1914, from the Gotisches Haus (Gothic House) Bad Homburg , Germany hat collection.

    (This is a large image so you have to click on it to see the details. Very interesting Bow designs and of course great hats from May 1914.  Also has the "Art/Form" and "Farbe/Color" numbers)

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    "Art/Form" is "Form" in English.  The "Art/Form" number is 5 digits for Soft Felts and all start with 34 (1914).  The "Art/Form" number is 4 digits for Stiff Felts and the only examples starts with 48 (1914).  The numbers increment because here are some later examples (probably at least WWII era).

    "Art/Form" 49703 (Possible Oldest Soft Felt)  - "Art/Form" 34846 (First Hat, Upper Left) = 14857 (Difference Since 1914)
    I wasn't able to match any of the older Mayser Soft Felt "Farbe/Color" numbers but I will check some of the later Soft Felts.

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    1937 date stamped envelope from a Dutch Mayser distributor (N.V. Hoedenmaatschappij, Bussum). The Mayser logo on the envelope matches the above sweatband logo.

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    "Art/Form" 5157 (Possibly Oldest Stiff Felt) - "Art/Form" 4854 (Bottom Center) = 303 (Difference Since 1914)
    There isn't a "Farbe/Color" number for "Art/Form" 4854 because Black is "Farbe 1" for all Mayser Soft and Stiff Felt Hats I have encountered.

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    Here is some additional information.

    "Art/Form" numbers for October 1931 are 46657, 45023.

    Mayser's Hutfabrik G. M. B. H. Receipt for Felix Fenn Dresden, October 24, 1931

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    Possibly an older Soft Felt with a lower number "Art/Form" 42387.  Possibly from the same time period as the Mayser / Johann Zehme Stiff Felt posted above. This hat belongs to Huthase on the FL.

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  11. Some great background information from Wolfgang (ErWeSa).

    To your picture: the men shown there have had their medical examinations for the army and were found fit to serve in the army - this was celebrated by putting these decorations on their hats and suits (and by drinking lots of beer).
     
     
     
    The custom still exists, particularly in the Tyrol-area, see here:

     

  12. Hut - Schick, Otto H. Schick Hat Maker Vienna, Shows His Handcrafted Hats

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    PRICE LIST: (My Note: In Austrian Schilling "S")

    Casual Hat, Soft Felt For Snapping                                          S       86.50
    Homburg, For The Evening                                                       S       128.—
    "Camber 50", As Day And Evening Hat                                   S       86.50 and 128.—
    Sports Or Tourist Hats Fine, Light Felt                                     S       86.50
    Loden Hats (Waterproof) For
    Hunting, Fishing And Tourism                                                   S       64.—
    Velour                                                                                           S       178.—
    Original Ausseer  as  as a proper headgear with a suit        S      64.— and 86.50
    Stylized Ausseer  as  as a proper headgear with a suit        S      64.— and 86.50
    Lamberg Hats      as  as a proper headgear with a suit        S      64.— and 86.50
    Schladminger With Felt Ribbon                                               S      55.—
    Boys' Hats  From                                                                         S      29.50
    Women's Hats For Hunting And Sports
    Made Of Fine Felt From                                                             S     67.—

    Hat Repairs.
    Individual And Custom-made Products On Request.

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    OLIVE LAMBERG
    WORN BY CHAMBER ACTOR HERMANN THIMIG IN STEIRER SUIT
    MADE BY HAND, OTTO SCHICK HAT MAKER IN VIENNA

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    SOFT, CURVED, SLATE GRAY TROTTER HAT
    WORN BY CHAMBER ACTOR FRED LIEWEHR
    MADE BY HAND, OTTO SCHICK HAT MAKER IN VIENNA

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    PRIMABALLERINA THE VIENNA STATE OPERA
    JULIA DRAPAL WITH ONE BLACK-GREEN LADIES LAMBERG
    MADE BY HAND, OTTO SCHICK HAT MAKER IN VIENNA

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    STATE THEATER ACTOR 0. W. FISCHER WITH DARK HOMBURG
    MADE BY HAND, OTTO SCHICK HAT MAKER IN VIENNA

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    THE CAMBER 50
    WORN BY ACTOR EGON V. JORDAN
    MADE BY HAND, OTTO SCHICK HAT MAKER IN VIENNA
    THE DAY AND EVENING HAT OF THIS WINTER SEASON. MOUSE GRAY, MAROON AND BLACK

    My Notes:  The catalog comes from the estate of the former prima ballerina at the Vienna State Opera, Julia Drapal.  The catalog is probably from the mid 1950s.  In 1955 1 United States Dollar =  26 Austrian Schillings.

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