habigman Posted March 2, 2018 Report Share Posted March 2, 2018 "Experience with (Fur) Hair Quality" from "Animal Hair of the Hat Industry, Herbert Rosenthal, Saxon University of Applied Sciences Textile Industry, Chemnitz, 1929" from Gotisches Haus (Gothic House) Bad Homburg, Germany collection. (Click on Photos to Expand) Animal Hair of the Hat Industry, Herbert Rosenthal Saxon University of Applied Sciences Textile Industry, Chemnitz Charges approved by the Technical University of Munich in order to obtain the dignity of DOCTOR OF TECHNICAL SCIENCES (Doctor of Agriculture) treatise. Presented by Agronomist Herbert Rosenthal born in Luckenwald, Germany. 1. Reviewer: Professor Dr. Philosophy Heinz Henseler. 2. Reviewer: Professor Councillor Dr. Philosophy Theodor Henkel. Date of filing of work 11th, February 1929 Date of acceptance of work 27th, February 1929 Animal Hair of the Hat Industry, Herbert Rosenthal, pages 117 - 119 §5 Experience with (Fur) Hair Quality Before I get to a compilation of the hair qualities, I have to specify some experiences, which have been communicated to me by experts of the hat industry. Because it is of particular importance to take such practical data into account in the attempt to standardize. The first distinguishing feature is the ability to feather the qualities hair. By this is meant the production of fine down-like hair on the surface after a good fulling. The whole hat gets a shiny, fine, soft texture and is very popular as a velour. Especially suitable for this are Hare backs, White Hare sides, Muskrat bellies, Beaver, also Nutria bellies. The latter Fur hair qualities, however, are so rare that we can disregard them. For the production of smooth and matt finish hats one uses especially the non-resilient Rabbit hair. In general, the experts said that the best quality should always be the Hare back of mature skins. It is used, as already mentioned, for velour and long-haired finish hats. Above all, the great felt energy is praised for this quality. Furthermore, the toughness, strength and the fine noble gloss are known here. As far as the color is concerned, there are usually no particular differences in terms of this quality. Almost the same characteristics are shown on the white side of Hare skins, which fell in winter and originate from adult animals. Only these hairs are a little less glamorous. Back and white side of non-mature winter skins have a little lower gloss and not the toughness of the aforementioned qualities. They give a pretty good structure. Long coarse hairs should be more abundant here. Now follow backs and sides of the autumn skins. They do not give a bad structure. But their brilliance is significantly lower. Blue side of Hare skins show little shine. Their texture is almost spongy. Blue sides of non-mature winter skins are very little different. Back and sides of the summer skins behave again far less favorable. Belly skins of mature winter hares give a pretty good, firm structure. The same characteristics also approximately show the belly hair of immature winter and autumn Hares. Only here the long course hairs are found more abundant. Wild Rabbit back has great and enduring feltability. Toughness should be almost as big as a mature Hare's back. Wild Rabbit side is not much worse. Only does not show the same tenacity. Wild Rabbit belly should behave in the processing often better than some Hare belly. Low energy shows the Garenne (area of pasture set aside for rabbits usually surrounded by stone walls) back. The Hare belly should be almost the same as the back hair of the Tame Rabbit. Quality ash color often equals the Wild Rabbit in terms of workability. Very little should the structure of hutch grey differ. In contrast, black shows less robust structure. Very good felting ability can be found again at hutch Rabbit. The worst it is given home White Rabbit. The Colorful Rabbit behaves better. Then the following qualities are distinguished mostly in the industry: I. Hare backs, winter, mature 2. White sides, Hare, winters mature 3. Blue sides, Hare, winter, mature 4. Hare stomach, winter, mature 5. Back and sides, winter Hare not mature 6. Blue sides, winter Hare not mature 7. Hare belly, winter Hare not mature 8. Hare back and sides, autumn 9. Hare belly, autumn 10. Hare back and sides, summer 11. Hare belly, summer 12. Wild Rabbit back 13. Wild Rabbit sides 14. Wild Rabbit belly 15. Garenne back 16. Tame Rabbit belly 17. Hutch Rabbit gray back 18. Ash Color back 19. Hutch Rabbit back 20. Black Rabbit back 21. Multi Color back 22. Hutch white Rabbit back These are the most common qualities. I was able to share some experiences. Some can be seen in the book by C. Bortfeld, a specialist in this field. The industry itself has difficulty obtaining such communications. Because most manufacturers want to keep their experience for themselves and evaluate themselves. Finally, I would like to characterize the breeding goal, which suggests the manufacturer. He prefers firm, elastic and dense skins with fine and tough hair. Suppleness, which increases with the hardness of the weather, is desired. Furthermore, precious luster, which depends on weather and age, is very popular. Especially bright colors are preferred. The moisture content may not exceed 2 percent if purchased. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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