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Mayser Hats Year 125


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Mayser's Hat Factory Ulm A. Donau (1925)

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MAYSER HATS

At all times the hat has been one of the most important parts of the human costume and no less preferential favored child of fashion. 
Nothing conveys the abundance of shapes better than a walk through Mayser's showroom, which holds the collection of faithful replicas of historical hats. This is where the visitor will find headgear in proper style of all times which has enjoyed the greatest esteem among knowledgeable circles for decades. There you can find primitive "headpieces" from pre-Christian times, the Petasos and the Pilos of the ancient Greeks, the Phrygian cap, then the colorful diversity of the Middle Ages from berets and mortarboards (doctoral hats) to shepherds' and hunters' hats, the wild forms from the time of the Thirty Years' War, fur- and lace-trimmed fashion creations of the French kings Louis XIV. and XV., all variants of the tricorne and later the bicorne and finally the constantly changing shapes of the high and the round hat with which the 19th century began its rule in hat fashion. Here gradually the replication of costumes that died away transitions to the active participation on the loom of the times and in service of fashion the Mayser company may now boast for 125 years. It was a restless, in every respect subversive time, in which master craftsman Leonhard Mayser opened his business. Everywhere the old was in a bitter battle with the new. Revolution and reaction fought against each other with changing fate. The year 1805 can be regarded as the point in time of the great change in fashion. (English Translation By ErWeSa (Wolfgang))

Photo center of page:
Old hatter's chest from 1694

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Historic Hats

No. 1 Hubertus cap from d. 14th year
No. 2 Islamic hat from the 11th century.
No. 3 Hubertus cap from d. 14th year
No.4. Hat of Emperor Joseph H. 1785
No. 5 Hat Friedrich the Elder Grolzen 1770
No. 6 Hat Emperor Napoleon I 1804
No.7 Hat from the 12th century.
No. 8 Hat from d. 12th century
No. 9 Hat Wallenstein 1630
No. 10 Hat from the 16th century.
No. 11 Hat from the 15th century.
No. 12 Hat from the 16th century.
No. 13 Hat heart. K.v.Wiirtt. 1760
No. 14. Karl Kühn hat. 15th century
No. 15 Hat of the elector v. Brandenburg 1675
No. 16 Hat from 1792
No. 17 Beret from the 16th century.
No. 18 Pilos of the Greeks v. Christ
No. 19 Kynae of the Greeks v. Christ
No. 20 Monk's hat from the 11th century.

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Historic Hats

No. 21 Phrygian hat a.d. 10th century
No. 22 Phrygian cap v. Christ
No. 23 Phrygian cap a. d. G. 9th century
No. 24. Hecker Hat 1848
No. 25 Hat of Louis XV. 1750
No. 26 Hat a. d. Franz Revolution 1789
No. 27 Doctoral hat from the 16th century
No. 28 Hat a.d. French Revolution 1789
No. 29 Hat Ludwig XIV. 1690
No. 30 Hat from 1805
No. 31 Hat from 1650
No. 32 Hat from 1830
No. 33 Incroyable 1790-1800
No. 34 Hat from 1825
No. 35 Thessalian d. Greeks v. Chr.
No. 36 Hat from 1830
No. 37 First Silk hat 1820
No. 38 Hat from 1810
No. 39 Petasos d. Greeks 400 years before Christ
No. 40 Collapsible Top hat from 1815

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Leonhard Mayser still made the bicorne as a preferred fashion item when he first started his career, yet the production of this item soon receded more and more after the army in general had introduced the shako and the bicorne just was part of the uniform of the diplomats and the high national officials. Instead the production of round hats and of top hats was responsible for lots of work and success for the young company which, from the 1840s onwards, also applied to the soft felt hat. The latter was politically infamous at the beginning and was persecuted by the police but soon lost its danger for the state after even Bismarck had completely converted to it. During 125 years of purposeful striving the managers of the Mayser factory could participate in shaping the hat fashion practically.  (English Translation By ErWeSa (Wolfgang))

Photo: BOX WITH OLD HAT MODELS AND FIXED BOWSOLD HAT MAKERS FOUNDATIONS

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THE HISTORY

The hat makers guild of Ulm had its seat in the house of the Storchenwirt (“Stork’s inn”) Peter Mayser. The big guild chest was there together with the guild symbols and that's where the gatherings of the Masters took place, gatherings in which all questions relating to the hat-making trade were dealt with, and above the gate the finely forged guild sign greeted the hiker. Although the guild system as such was already in decline in Germany especially this professional association in Ulm enjoyed extraordinary prestige at that time. Not everyone could become a hatter's apprentice. But since Leonhard Mayser, the son of the Storchenwirt, born in 1775, met all requirements, the guild issued him a training certificate and then affiliated him in 1800 as a master in their ranks. With modest means, he opened a hat shop with an adjoining workshop in Sterngasse and ran this business under his name (compare the picture). In spite of all the hard work, things did not go well in the first year. The oppressive regulations of the guild order which suppressed every development were to blame in the first place for this situation. These regulations stipulated i. a. that no master of the hat maker's guild was allowed to keep more than one journeyman if there was a master in town who happened to have none in the workshop. (English Translation By ErWeSa (Wolfgang))

Photo: Peter Mayser (1742-1827) Storchenwirt and hostess father  the guardian

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That only changed when Leonhard Mayser was elected chief guild master in 1830 and used all his influence to remove this stipulation that hindered any progress. With the help of his son Friedrich, born in 1808, whom he had taken on as a journeyman in the business in 1827, he has now succeeded in significantly developing production and continuously increasing sales. From 1833 onwards, Mayser ran the business with his son, who had meanwhile made his masterpiece, together under the company name “Leonhard Mayser & Son”. In those years the hat was made by hand and without any machine help. “It is by no means unjust presumption to call hat making an art; because it not only uses the hands to work, but also the head to think ". These proud words, which Pilzecker wrote down in his work on hat making in 1828, rightly assign hat making a place of honor in commercial creation. The basis of the art of hat making is the production of the felt, the material that "at first neither is a weave, a fabric nor a braid, but then nevertheless it forms a whole”, as emphasized by Pilzecker and "for which neither needle nor thread is used, but which owes its existence to a strange separation, interdependence and reunification of the original material". After the pretreatment of the raw materials, the plucking and cutting off of the coarse hair. (English Translation By ErWeSa (Wolfgang))

Old family house in Sterngasse

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The most important process of hat making began: "felting". The amount of hair required for a hat was spread out on the wicker tray and using an instrument hanging from the ceiling , of the specialized bow, which looked like a giant fiddle bow, "struck." This activity required a considerable degree of manual skill. By snapping the gut string of the bow, the hair was swirled so vigorously that it finally formed an intimate mixture. By pressing, rubbing and pushing using a sieve, the hatter made this "compartment" more and more solid. The next process, the "knocking together", brought the union of these individual subjects to the hat. By continually rolling and turning the felt, the hat maker pressed and kneaded the felt more and more tightly To give the hat a certain shape and size at the same time, the felt had to be worked on for hours on a fulling table with a rolling pin and then dipped into hot water again and again to promote the felting process. After the hat had been milled to the desired size, the long hair protruding from the felt had to be singed off over a flame of burning straw. This was followed by dyeing and drying, followed by the shaping of the hats by mounting the felts on wooden molds.

Bei Mayser Ulm Vor 100 Jahren, At Mayser Ulm 100 Years Ago

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After taking out the form, the coarse hair was removed in rows with pumice stone, the hat was ironed, brushed, tied with ribbon, lining and leather, and then passed into the hands of the customers. In this purely handcrafted form, hat manufacturing was carried out until operated in the mid-fifties. After the 1839 After the founder's death, the son continued to run the business under the Company "Friedrich Mayser". In 1858 two adjacent Houses bought and set up for manufacture. In these It is also time to set up the first machines that are not going to Elimination of the manual labor served, but only to the to facilitate and to facilitate manual operation in some places
accelerate. As a clever businessman, Friedrich Mayser had it They immediately recognized the extraordinary benefits of machine help as one of the first in Germany to make use of his work. After his son Fritz - born in 1840 - became a partner in the Factory was incorporated, the company was transformed into ,, F. Mayser & son "changed. In 1872 200 workers were already working in the plant, the number of hats sold was 110,000. Sales continued to develop favorably, despite the general overproduction of goods caused by the many reorganizations in the post-war years of 1870. In severe economic struggles against the government's customs policy, which was seriously damaging the German hat-making trade, against broad competition and against the general note of these crisis years, Commerce Council Fritz Mayser managed to keep his work viable and the quality of his Products to ensure respect at home and abroad. In the years 1901-1905 a modern one, with all technical ones
and new machines equipped. From In 1906 Karl Mayser took over the management of the company and from 1921 his brother Alfred Mayser as well as the long-time employee Mr. 0skar Schaefer The increase in quality work and the reputation, which Mayser knew how to achieve in the customer base had the best advertising success for the company. Until August 1914 the factory was constantly well supplied with orders.

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FRITZ MAYSER
Commerce Council
LEONHARD MAYSER
Founder of the factory
FRIEDRICH MAYSER
Son of the founder


KARL MAYSER
ANTON SEIDL
OSCAR SCIIAEPER
ALFRED MAYSER

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OFFICIALS AND WORKSMEN OF THE COMPANY

WITH AN ACTIVITY BETWEEN 50 AND 60 YEARS
Xaver Waitzenbök, joined on May 12, 1867, Works Foreman
Johannes Wolf. joined on September 15, 1869, Works Foreman
Anton Fröhlich, joined on August 1, 1874, Master Dyer

WITH AN ACTIVITY BETWEEN 40 AND 50 YEARS
Max Ackermann, joined on September 15, 1876, Works Foreman
Rosine Sick, joined on September 21, 1878, Head of the Department
Oscar Schäfer, joined May 1, 1882, Director
Joseph Paissa, joined January 15, 1884, Works Foreman
Adam Wagner, joined August 1884, Works Foreman

WITH AN ACTIVITY BETWEEN 25 AND 40 YEARS
Heinrich Peterler, joined on April 17, 1887, Clerk
Wilhelmine Schmid, joined May 18, 1889, Head of the Department
Karl Hungerbühler, joined on May 9, 1892, Works Foreman
August Brechtel, joined on g. February 1896, Warehouse Manager
Karl Jäger, joined on October 4, 1898, Authorized Signatory

FURTHER EMPLOYEES OF THE COMPANY

WITH AN ACTIVITY BETWEEN 50 AND 60 YEARS
Dorothea Botzenhardt, joined on February 1, 1870, Decorator
Wilhelm Lohrmann, joined October 1, 1870, Hat Maker
Ludwig Mack, joined May 1, 1871, Appreteur (skilled worker who finishes fabrics, textiles)
Johannes Schüle, joined on August 15, 1874, Hat Maker

WITH AN ACTIVITY BETWEEN 40 AND 50 YEARS
Anna Blessing, joined on August 2, 1878, Decorator
Georg Blessing, joined on August 12, 1878, Hat Maker
Anton Leutermann, joined on February 1, 1880, Hat Maker
Joseph Röttner, joined April 5, 1880, Hat Maker
Anna Schöllhammer, joined on July 1, 1880,Decorator
Marie Röcker, joined on July 7, 1880, Hair Blower

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WITH AN ACTIVITY BETWEEN 40 AND 50 YEARS

Johannes Gerst, joined September 15, 1880, Hat Maker
Martin Paulus, joined September 15, 1880, Hat Maker
Georg Rudhardt, joined October 16, 1880, Hat Maker
Friederike Hartmann, joined April 15, 1881, Decorator
Julius Mühlberges, joined September 1, 1881, Hat Maker
Karl Freudigmann, joined October 15, 1881, Hat Maker
Pauline Schmid, joined April 16, 1882, Decorator
Jakob Kimmerle, joined on August 25, 1882, Hat Maker
Angelika Paulus, joined on April 10, 1885, Decorator
Matthäus Schäfer, joined on July 5, 1883, Hat Maker
Vincenz Heid, joined on September 1, 1883, Handler
Adelheid Krapf, joined on October 1, 1885, Initiator
Heinrich Goll, joined April 1, 1884, Hat Maker
Eugen Hiller, joined April 1, 1884, Hat Maker
Georg Späth, joined April 10, 1884, Hat Maker
Joseph Saum, joined April 22, 1884, Hat Maker
Louis Petersen, joined on August 10, 1884, Hat Maker
Karl Rothschuh, joined April 17, 1885, Hat Maker
Johannes Werner, joined April 17, 1885, Hat Maker
Eugen Goll, joined April 27, 1885, Hat Maker
Katharina Benz, joined on July 15, 1885, Decorator

WITH AN ACTIVITY BETWEEN 25 AND 40 YEARS
Margarete Woifinger, joined December 1, 1886, Decorator
Lucas Braun, joined March 10, 1887, Hat Maker
Anna Stöckle, joined October 30, 1887, Initiator
Matthias Wolfinger, joined the Presser on September 10, 1888
Julius Ott, joined July 1, 1890, Bichoneur
Rosine Haygold, joined September 10, 1890, Decorator
Anna Petersen, joined  July 18, 1892, Decorator
Eduard Schneider, joined on December 5, 1893, Hat Maker
Julie Braun, joined January 2, 1895, Decorator
Rosa Hungerbühler, joined January 22, 1897, Decorator
Joseph Maile, joined November 1, 1897, Presser
Richard Gall, joined January 13, 1899, Packer

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The war initially shut down the entire plant, but operations could be resumed at the end of 1914. The business world had calmed down again. The army administration issued important orders for felt helmets. Since the raw material required for the hair hat production, unlike the confiscated wool, was always available, the Mayser factory was able to work successfully until the end of the war. thus, even after the end of the Great War, the return of the factory to peace work caused far fewer difficulties than was the case in many other industries. A substantial expansion of the commercial fundamentals of the Company arose when G. m.b.H. Shares were transferred to the hat factory J. A. Seidl, Munich, and its owner, Mr. Seidl, who had already taken an interest in the Mayser factory in 1908, was now entrusted with the management of the factory, which ensured the meritorious cooperation of Mr. Seidl for the Mayser factory. The excellent quality work and the good taste presentation increased the demand for the Mayser brand hat to such an extent that an extraordinarily strong increase in the machine park was made in 1923 and 1924. The success was not lacking. Double the number of hats compared to 1913 leaves the factory today. Over 500 employees and Workers restlessly manage to increase this production.

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THE FACTORY
 
DURING the first half of the century of the Mayser works the hat production entirely by way of the Manual work, the machine technology has gradually learned to adapt itself so completely to this trade that it is undisputedly asserting the field today. The words Pilzecker quoted earlier about the art of hat making still retain their value even today, after a hundred years. We want to try to convey a vivid impression of the development of a Mayser hat through words and images. The elongated, mighty factory building (Fig. 1), which we enter through a wide driveway (Fig. 2), is already shining towards us from afar. The total built-up area of the factory has a size of around 9000 square meters. Customers and suppliers expect reception rooms (Fig. 3). To get a better overview, we will first consider the Follow the development of the soft fur felt hat.

Fig. 1: OVERALL VIEW OF THE FACTORY IN 1925

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The Manufacture of the Fur Felt Hat

The raw materials that are processed in the Mayser factory have already undergone a lengthy pretreatment in the hairdressing shop. Since the fresh, so-called "green" hair cannot be used immediately for production, it is first stored for some time. The mighty shelves, on which the stocks of hair are arranged according to quality, reach up to the ceiling. The actual production begins with the mixing of the hair. Similar to the cigarette industry, the art of mixing also plays an important role here. The hair is first placed in a mixing wheel, where it is loosened and distributed. Now they are brought into the so-called mixed wolves (Fig. 4), in whose spacious box the loosened hairs are now thoroughly swirled around each other. In order to free the thus mixed hair of foreign bodies and dirt and to separate the coarse hair from the fine hair suitable only for manufacture, the mixture is allowed to pass through large ones multi-speed blow molding machines (Fig. 5) are running, in which fans separate the useful from the unusable. After the blowing process, the hair is returned to the warehouse and the hair, which has been coarse, is weighed according to whether it is soft or stiff, heavy or light, large or small. Now the actual fabrication (shaping) begins with the specialist shop. This process takes place in the specialist machines (Fig. 6). The weighed quantum of hair is fed into the machine on a carpet: a large funnel into which a cone made of perforated copper sheet is inserted and placed over an air shaft. After closing the doors, the hair falling from above is sucked onto the cone by a fan.

Fig. 2: Main Entrance to the Factory

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After the doors have been closed, the Hair falling from above sucked onto the cone. So that the hair sucked in by the cone is held in this position, one leaves one as soon as the whole amount of hair is stored The hot water shower inside the funnel starts to work. The pressure of this sharp spray causes a easy binding of the hair. The hat-to-be, called Fache, has now reached its first fixed form, although it is even more so resembles a funnel-shaped sack than a human head covering. The numerous felting and fulling procedures that now follow make it shorter and more resistant. First of all, the subjects go to the hand felting department (Fig. 7), where workers usually put three of them on top of each other and wrapped them in a coarse cloth. By carefully rolling and kneading the sheds, the felts become intertwined and become thicker. Now the hat mushrooms are transferred to the various fulling machines. The Mayser factory, which employs a total of 150 people in its fulling mill (Fig. 8, 9, 10), also has a trunk of tried and tested workers at its disposal for hand-rolling the finest hats (Fig. 10). The purpose of all flexing processes is to push the felt through Pressure in moisture and heat to give the highest degree of strength.

Fig. 3: Reception Rooms

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The first picture from the fulling mill of the factory ( Fig. 8 ) shows a whole series of lumbering machines which consist of several rollers mounted one above the other, which rotate in one direction and at the same time a pushing movement run in the direction of their axes. As soon as the felts have passed through this machine, they are sent to the pre-boiled machines, which are similarly constructed and in which they are subjected to considerable, sharp pressure for a long time, so that they shrink to almost half their size. The finish milling finally takes place on so-called three-roll milling machines (Fig. 9) in which two to three felts are inserted become. The finished fulled product, now called "stump", is stretched on a special machine (Fig. 11) and then goes to the dye works (Fig. 12) The forks are stirred evenly in order to finally be dried in powerful apparatuses fed by hot steam (Fig. 13). After drying is complete, the blunt ones are "pearled", i.e. the Long hair protruding from the felt is removed by a rapidly moving knife. Now the dull Vappretierta are dried and dried again. Then they come to the head ejecting machine and then to the edge stretching machine. The butt is formed on molding machines (Fig. 11). This is followed by the pumcing of the stump (Fig. 14). For this purpose, the blunt ones are processed with fine pumice paper. The dumb hat has thus become the hat, the external perfection of which is now the subject of the last, still numerous, work processes. The hat goes from the skin pass machines (Fig. 16) to the dressing (Fig. 17), a very important part of the manufacturing process. (Fig. 15) shows the Machine pumice and (Fig. 18) the further treatment in the hydraulic press system. The bridier's hands (Fig. 19 and 20) now take on the hat to carefully trim the edge in order to then bring it into the garnishing room.

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Here (Fig. 21) motorized sewing machines hum in the Lining sewing (Fig. 22) ingeniously constructed machines enable the production of the finest linings, and hard-working, skilled hands provide the hats with ribbon and leather (Fig. 23). The hats come from the garnishing room to the bichoning room (Fig. 20), where they are painstakingly reworked. They now leave the factory through the packing department (Fig. 24). The factory has its own paperboard making shop; also a carpentry with all facilities (Fig. 25) In secondary operations there are also: a lithographic and gold minting facility in which the hat leather and hat lining are printed with the brand and company, a metalworking shop (Fig. 26), which carries out ongoing repairs and the maintenance of all the mechanical equipment Manufacturing facility and finally a special power and lighting system In a modern boiler house (Fig. 27), in three steam boilers with a heating surface of 400 square meters that generate steam for production. Our own dynamo machines provide the electrical current for power and light. A mighty two-cylinder steam engine (Fig. 28) with 250 HP is available as a reserve in the event of a malfunction.

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The Manufacture of the Velour Hat

The difference between the Velour Hat and the smooth hats lies less in the manufacture than in the raw material, for which only the finest Wild Hare hair is used. The deviations in the development are mainly due to the frequent brushing of the felt that begins during the fulling process and is repeated at other stations (Fig. 10). In order to achieve an even coat of hair, the hair protruding from the brushing must be cut to an even length be sheared on a machine.

PARTIAL VIEW OF THE MODEL ROOMS

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PICTORIAL REPRESENTATION
THE
FACTORY

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HISTORICAL PICTURES OF EARLY HATMAKING XVIII. (18th) CENTURY

Fachen, Dying, Felting and Fulling

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Fig. 4: PARTIAL VIEW OF THE HAIR - SORTING

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Fig. 5: PARTIAL VIEW OF BLOWING

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Fig. 6: FACHING 

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Fig. 7: HAND FELTING FOR HAIR HATS

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Fig. 8: PARTIAL VIEW OF FELTING MACHINES 

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Fig. 9: PARTIAL VIEW OF FELTING MACHINES 

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Fig. 10: PARTIAL VIEW OF MACHINE AND HAND FULLING AND VELOUR BRUSHING

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Fig. 11: MECHANICAL BUMPING AND FORMING

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Fig. 12: Color Dyeing 

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Fig. 13: Drying Apparatus

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Fig. 14: Finishing

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Fig. 15: Partial View Of Machine Finishing

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Fig. 16: Partial View Of Hat Forming

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Fig. 17: Partial View Of Hand Finishing

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Fig. 18: Hydraulic Press Systems

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Fig. 19: Shaping Brim and Sandbag Presses

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Fig. 20: Partial View of Brim Curling And Brim Binding

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Fig. 21: Partial View Of Garnishing - Brim Binding (Machines - Seamstresses) 

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Fig. 22: Partial View of Garnishing - Ribbon / Bows 

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Fig. 23: Partial View Of Garnish (Installing Leather Sweatbands)

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Fig. 24: Partial View Of Packaging

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Fig. 25: Model - Carpentry

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Fig. 26: Metal Working Shop And Repair Workshop

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Fig. 27: Boiler House

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Fig. 28: Reserve - Power - Plant

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THE SALES AREA

Mayser's hat factory has worked on the development of German hat production for 125 years. In this long period of time, a wealth of experience has been gained in material testing, in purchasing, in the use of raw materials and semi-finished products, the end result of which is the prerequisite for the production of a high-quality finished product. All innovations in technology were always applied immediately. All of this helped establish and consolidate the reputation of the Mayser hats. The striving of today's management of the work is especially on the production set of quality products. In this way she has succeeded in expanding the company's sales area to all cultural countries and in getting the Mayser name to be respected all over the world. The fact that only the most careful work and the very best quality can bring honor back to German industrial products across national borders has been taken into account by the Mayser company with purposeful will and the best of success. Compared to the competition from abroad, which was not damaged by the World War, this does not mean an easy struggle. But diligence, tenacity and unwavering adherence to the principle of workmanship, the guiding stars that the Mayser company has followed for more than a century, will also show him a happy path into the future.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

I. MAYSER HAT PAGE 5

II. THE MAYSER SALES PAGE 9

1. THE STORY PAGE 9

2. THE FACTORY PAGE 17
 
3. THE HAIR HAT PAGE 18

4. THE VELOUR HAT PAGE 22

5. PICTURES OF THE FACTORY PAGE 25

III. THE SALES AREA PAGE 30

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E.B.V.B. - Ecksteins Biographischer Verlag Berlin - Eckstein's Biographical Publishing House Berlin 

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Back Cover

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