Der Filzhut, seine Geschichte und seine Herstellung. Hrsg.v.d. Deutschen Hutmacher-Zeitung (1936).

[habigman]

Der Filzhut, seine Geschichte und seine Herstellung. Hrsg.v.d. Deutschen Hutmacher-Zeitung (1936).   This book is an update of Fabrikation von Damen- und Herren- Filzhüten, Der Deustchen Hutmacher Zeitung (1933).  I have a hardcopy of this book.

Contents

I. The Hatter, his wishes and concerns. Then and now 7
Hatter coat of arms from then 20

II. The hat and its history, by custodian Dr. Wolfgang Bruhn. 29
Symbolic and anecdotal about the hat . . . 31
History 33
Digression on the "Basel hat" 46
Hats from contemporary fashion journals from the Directoire (1793) to the Biedermeier (1832) ...... 52
Different forms of Parisian men's and women's hats . 57

III. The woolen hat and its manufacture 61
Wool washing 64
Flowing carbonization plant 74
Wool hat production 75
Grinding 76
Felting 80
Toggling and twisting 83
Carbonization 87
Molding 93

IV Mixing shop 105
Pressing and finishing 106
V. Hair hat manufacture 111
Finishing of the material 116
Different types of bating 117
Brushing and sorting the skins 119
The hair hat factory 122
Blowing 126
Raw fabrication 128
a) Folding 128 b) Felting 133 c) Fulling 135 d ) ejection 140

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VI. The Finishing of the Hair Hat 143
The Finishing 146
The Die Drawing 147
Rolling and Briding 148
Touring 149 Raising 149
The Edge Processing 150
Ironing 151
Capelines and Ladies' Hats 152
Trimmings 153
Plumes Hat Production 153

VII. Specialist articles from practice — for practice . . 155
On the question of the wear ability of men's hats 157
Weatherproof hats through impregnation 165
On the question of the light and wear fastness of wool, hair and velour hats, by master dyer Kurt Richter 167 Hair velour i real velour, prime velour ... 175
The processing 176
Finishing 181
Differences in quality in rabbit hair 182
When can a velour hat be called "genuine"? • 183
Modern hat stump dyeing on mechanical apparatus • 185
Construction material of the dyeing apparatus 187
Removal of impurities . 187
Damage caused by free nitric acid 189
The wool, its properties and its processing in of hat manufacture, by master dyer Kurt Richter . . . 191
The hat dyeing of yesterday and today, by master dyer Kurt Richter 203
Modern dyeing processes in wool and hair felt dyeing, by Gustav R. Arnold 223
Dyeing 223
Dyeing loose wool for solid colors and melanges • 224
The dyeing of men's hat woolen hats • 227
The dyeing of soft men's hair r hats in the Labraz . • 229
Contributions to Modern Hat Dyeing, by Richard Haynn. 233
The shellac stick in the manufacture of felt hats . . . . . . 241
The shellac finish for women's braided hats made of crinol, straw, lite, cellophane, artificial silk, raffia, etc. .  247
VIII. Technical terms of the Hatter 249
Hat measure reduction table 279
IX. sources of supply 281

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