habigman

The Big Factory Stefan Esders Wien, VII., Mariahilferstrasse 18  (1917)

Berlin Gubener Hat Factory, formerly A. Cohn, Guben, 1913

C. G. Wilke Hutfabrik Guben,  possibly Early 1900s

C. G. Wilkes Hutfabrik und Villa Wike, Guben, Post Card, 1913

"Böhmovy Klobouky" Display Mannequin possibly 1930s.  This is a seller photo from March 2018.  I regret passing on it.  

Hutfabrik Brüder Böhm, Wien VII, Schottenfeldgasse (1950s)  I received these back in December 2018.

Mayser's Hutfabrik G. M. B. H. Receipt for Felix Fenn Dresden, October 24, 1931.

Notice the size breakdown (handwritten) for each model. 

Here is a Mayser's "Orion" from the same time period. 

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/3-mayser-hutfabrik/?do=findComment&comment=1482

The following is very interesting.

Extract from the Sales, Delivery and Payment terms of the Central Association of Hat Manufacturers Germany e. V. in dealings with Men's Hat Retail. (1/1/1928)

Invoices are payable in gold marks (§ 3 Coins Act of August 30, 1924. 1: 2790 kg fine gold) 30 days after the end of the delivery month with a 2% discount or 60 days after the end of the delivery month: net without discount.

Respect days are not granted. - Bills of exchange can be taken in payment, then a minimum discount rate of 2% above the Reichsbank discount for bills of up to three months, a rate of 4% per Reichsbank discount for bills of exchange with a longer term and for bills on secondary places.

Deliveries from the 26th of the month from are considered deliveries of the following month

3% are credited to Reichsbank discount for advance interest for advance payment, and 3% to Reichsbank discount for default interest if the target is exceeded.

Cash account is not granted if older invoices are still unpaid.

Small deviations from the delivery quantity due to manufacturing defects do not have to be delivered later.

Made-to-measure hats and orders for up to three pieces per shape and color are subject to a surcharge of 10%; A width of more than 60 cm is 20%.

If the manufacturer is in error, before the customer can assert any other right, a grace period of 18 working days must be set (registered letter).

The place of performance is the location of the manufacturer's branch. The place of jurisdiction for claims by the manufacturer is also the Berlin-Mitte courts.

The group of detailed manufacturers of the Central Association of Hat Manufacturers in Germany E.V.

K. Bronnold, Gebr. Gattel, J. Hückel 's Söhne, Mayser's Hutfabrik.G.m.b.H., Gebr. Messerschmidt, Ph. Möckel, Rehfus & Cie, A. Riedel , C.G. Wilke. 

Mayser's Hutfabrik G. M. B. H. Receipt for F. Fenn Dresden Cotta, April 3, 1933

Mayser "Perl", 54 cm possibly early 1950s.  I don't believe I have seen a "Perl" before.  This hat belongs to Garrett on the FL.  He will send to Black Sheep Hat Works. 

     

3. Testing Room

The final part of the exhibition will excite all hat lovers. A variety of hats, caps and accessories will be available in the rehearsal room to test and choose the most appropriate model. You can find out that a hat can be found on every head in a digital testing room. You can then send your photo with a hat via e-mail to your friends as a greeting.

https://www.mestoklobouku.cz/cs/expozice-klobouku.html?probehleAkce=true2121121121212.1

Current Tonak a. s. Men's Soft Felt Hat that I selected.

The End.

Hat Factories of Neutitschein / Nový Jičín.  Today only J. Hückel´s Söhne remains as Tonak.  The last original major factory complex in the world producing Hat Felt from skin / pelt to finished Soft Felt Hat.

Brüder Böhm Factories from 1937 promotional calendar.

Anton Peschel Factory early 1900s.

J. Hückel´s Söhne Factory 1868 (These original buildings are still in use today.)

J. Hückel´s Söhne pre 1900 International Exhibition Awards.

Present day view of Tonak a .s. Factory.

Felt Cards and Czech Hat Industry periodicals from pre 1940.

2. Studio (Workshop)

The second part of the exhibition is devoted to the hats. On functional machines you will be shown creeping headgear and pressing mini-caps. Both adults and children can experience their own creativity and artistic talent. There will be a package with a reduced semi-finished product and decoration, from which you can make your own original souvenir. There is a children's play corner for the youngest visitors.

Above is my friend Mirka Janyška. Her husband Peter is a decedent of the Janyška family, former owners of Janyška Hat Factory.  Mirka makes small scale hats to show the steps in hat making to children.  All the machines were scaled down to make small scale hats.

Above is Hat Makers from Tonak that also shows the steps of hat making.

Above is a room where children learn about Felt Making and Hat Making.

Continued.

Video Kiosks for "Preparing The Fur", "Mixing And Cleaning Fur", "Combing", "Work On The Fulling Board", "Dyeing", "Machine Shaping", "Surface Treatment" at TONAK factory.

Video presentation of Hat History of Neutitschein / Nový Jičín.   Major Hat Factories J. Hückel´s Söhne (now Tonak a.s.), Anton Peschel and Brüder Böhm.

Continued.

Nový Jičín Vistor's Center "Exposition on Hats" The exhibition is divided into three parts:

1. Technology of the Production Process - From Rabbit to Hat

2. Studio (Workshop)

3. Testing Room

The following photos are from my  September 7, 2019 visit to Nový Jičín Vistor's Center "Exposition on Hats" and Tonak 220 Year Celebration.  I would try clicking on photos to expand.

1. Technology of the production process - From Rabbit To Hat

In the first part of the exhibition you will gradually learn about the technological process of hat production. You will see and experience the transformation of the material at certain stages of processing. Authentic video demonstrations from individual factory production sections will draw you into a remarkable production process. You will also find important milestones and events connected with the tradition of hat making in the Nový Jičín area. In addition to the historical panel, you will get additional information from the world of hats in the projection corner, where you can start a film screening of your choice. Among other things, it offers a series of fairy tales for our youngest visitors. The exposition is complemented by exhibits of production machines.

WOODEN FORMS FOR SHAPING THE HATS on sand presses

Rabbit and Hare Skins.

Continued.

Halban & Damask Velour, 58 cm possibly 1920s.  This is the first soft felt Halban & Damask Wien soft felt I have encountered and it was an export to Norway.  This rare find was made back in 2012 by FL member Qirrel (see above).  I would like to thank Garrett for letting me know that it had come up for auction on Ebay. 

Open Crown

Natural Light

J. Hückel´s Söhne "Elastic", measures 58cm, possibly later 1920s early 1930s.  The sweatband bow was missing so I installed a new one.  I couldn't  find a paper label.  Possible modifications were made because there was a felt strip applied to the back side of the felt at the front edge level (most likely) for cushioning. 

STECO "Echt Velour" Quality "Velour Seal" Form "Saale" Color "Grafit", 55 cm possibly later 1930s. Raw edge brim at 5,5cm and the crown 10cm at the center dent.. Sweatband printing says EMA "Schutz Marke" (top) and "Gut zieht an!". This hat belongs to Stefan on FL.

Interesting find by Matt on the FL.

"The "EMA" imprint on the sweatband is from "Emil Mandel - Großhuthandlung Dresden."

STECO "Hora Velour" Form "Münster" velour in grey. Size 57 with the raw edge brim at 5cm and the crown at 10,5cm at the center dent. Never heard of the brand before, but the felt is great and aside from some staining on the liner the hat is in excellent condition. Judging by the sweatband my thought is pre-war. German made, because it has a German label. Colour is called "eis" (ice).  This hat belongs to Stefan on FL. 

Open Crown

Natural Light

STECO Echt Velour "Quality Velour Seal", 57cm, probably mid to late 1930s. Confirmed this har was made by Friedrich Steinberg Hermann & Co. (STECO) Hat Factory Luckenwalde (East Germany) so they might be the source. The "Quality Velour Seal" felt color is a fantastic + unique Tobacco (Tabak) color with a great finish and hand. Also a interesting bow design and two tone liner.

Overbeck Nürnberg "Sonett", 57 cm, possibly late 1950s.  This hat might have been made by Mayser.  Couldn't find anything on the Overbeck Nürnberg brand. This hats belongs to Stefan on the FL.

Mayser "Spezial", 58 cm possibly late 1950s.  As usually great felt, form and workmanship.  Really like the bow and brim work.  Also near mint condition.

Natural Light

Janyška "Gazela", 55 cm possibly late 1930s into 1940s.  This hat belongs to Stefan on the FL.

Mayser, 58 cm, date stamped December 19, 1961, no paper label.  This hat belongs to Stefan on the FL.

C.G. Wilke "Bürstel Electra", 57cm, Open Crown 6 inches, Brim 2 1/4 inches probably later 1930s.  This hat belongs to Stefan on the FL.

J. Hückel´s Söhne "Prima" (Paper label has "A V" so possibly Alpha Velour), French Point 4 1/2, possibly 1930s late 1920s.  This fantastic Velour belongs to Steve on the FL. 

Mayser "Superbe", 58 cm, date stamped 1956.  Found by Daniele and now belongs to Randy on the FL.

Date stamped February 4, 1956

DF