habigman

"Wiener Mode (Viennese Fashion)", measures 58 cm, Crown Open 6 inches, Brim 2 inches, Back Bow, possibly 1930s.  This one has has some major insect damage and wear issues but still interesting.  There isn't a paper label and I can only make out "Wiener Mode (Viennese Fashion) on the liner.  The Velour has a longer nap but not quite Soleil.  The Velour has a vibrant color with high gloss and easily dry creases. 

"Wiener Mode" is barely visible at the bottom.  

Open Crown

 

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J. Hückel´s Söhne "Prima" (Paper label has "A V" so possibly Alpha Velour), French Point 5, possibly 1930s late 1920s.  This fantastic Velour belongs to Daniele on the FL. 

The velour is magnificent, thick and very well preserved, and the hat has an unimaginable lightness.

Hückel Weilheim "Exclusiv", 56 cm, possible latere 1950s.  This hat belongs to Stefan on the FL.

 

 

Wegener "Start", 58 cm, possibly late 1920s early 1930s.  Over Welt Curled Brim with Back Bow. There might be some wool in the felt mix.  A mix of colors with rougher clip but a very soft hand. There is some wear but still in very good condition with all original components including the crown patch.  I only have two other old Wegener Soft Felts so a rare find.

The paper label is similar to this Wegener "Elasticon" Stiff Felt that belongs to Robert (RLK).

Could be in Zoll vs. Inches. 

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J. Hückel´s Söhne "Flexible", French Point 6 3/4 (60.5 cm), 158 grams, probably 1930s. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wegener "Seal", 57 cm possibly mid to later 1950s.  The felt color and Chamois finish are fantastic.  Also like the ribbon width and bow design.  Wegener liked to use names of German towns for their colors, in this case "Fritzlar".

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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J. Hückel´s Söhne "Plume", 56 cm, 136 grams, possibly late 1930s. Great felt finish and the condition is excellent. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hückel Weiheim "Chamois, 57 cm, possibly late 1950s.  The fawn colored felt is lighter weight and easily dry creases.  I believe this is the first one I have come across with a thin ribbon and also a wind cord.  There are many examples of these HW hats with color coordinated small feathers that I am fairly certain they were installed at the factory. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Open Crown

 

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Janyška Pocket Mirror possibly 1930s and
 belongs to Peter and Mirka Janyška.

Visit to former location of Janyška & Cie. in Valašské Meziříčí September 9, 2019.  You can contrast with historical photos above.

Janyška Villa

Factory Entrance

Plaque to WWII terror victums.

Former Factory Buildings

I would like to thank Peter and Mirka Janyška for bringing me to the former site of Janyška & Cie. factory Valašské Meziříčí.  Also for sharing their historical information.

Janyška & Cie. was started in the 1920s in Valašské Meziříčí – Krásno about 25 km from Nový Jičín.   Janyška & Cie. was a Czech company based on Austrian hat tradition.

Here is a brief history of the company.

Janyška was a hat production company founded in 1921 in Valašské Meziříčí .  At the birth of the company were mostly natives of Valasske Mezirici and the surrounding area, the main representative was Ludwig Janyška originally authorized signatory of the company Schlessinger Valasske Mezirici. The company immediately after its foundation quickly developed a promising and already in the 20s of the 20th century has become a strong competitor for companies that in millinery act much longer. Even because the company wanted to continue to develop, in 1928 the company was commissioned to "Janyška a spol., A joint-stock company for production of hats in Valašské Meziříčí".

The period of the joint stock company was the period of the greatest development of the company. Factory managed to export to almost all world markets, not only to America , but also to Asia and Indonesia . Export was the main item for the company and by the mid-1930s the company exported around 85% of the produced goods.

Like the rest of the industry, the factory was hit by the global economic crisis , but due to good leadership, it did not sign up more than the move to lay off several employees and reduce production. Fortunately, the factory stayed in order to grow even further from 1934 . Production and export have been rising rapidly, new and additional workers have been recruited and employees have been able to raise wages. The factory has participated in several world exhibitions and has almost always brought some price. At the end of 1938 , a major reconstruction of the factory was also carried out, when new dining rooms were set up for staff, new showers, dressing rooms and toilets were built.

In 1939 came the German occupation of Czechoslovakia . Although Janska managed to maintain the existence of the company, though at the price of small concessions. The factory was not only producing hats and caps, but also arms production and state orders for the production of military socks. By the end of the war , this production had prevailed.

After World War II, the company worked for a while, but after nationalizing in 1945 , it was then transferred to Tonak together with other Novojičín factories in December 1946 . In 1961 , the race was canceled.

https://cs.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janyška_a_spol.

I will was very fortunate to meet Peter Janyška and his wife Mirka.  Peter's grandfather was the technical director of Janyška and early post WWII Tonak.

I will start with historical Janyška & Cie. photos from Peter's personal collection, followed by a visit to the old factory location.  Many of buildings are still intact but are being used for other purposes.

Janyška & Cie. Hair Cutting Room Staff (1936)

Tonak / Janyška & Cie. Parade Float (late 1940s early 1950s)

Tonak / Janyška & Cie. Parade Members (late 1940s early 1950s)

Tonak / Janyška & Cie. Parade Members (late 1940s early 1950s)

Felt Stump / Hood Inspection (possibly late 1930s)

Janyška & Cie.Front Gate

Fur Pelt / Skin Delivery

Factory Buildings

 

 

Continued.

Janyška Calendar "1942"  This is from the collection of Mirka Janyška.  

With the wish of successful work in the New Year 1942

Chimney Sweeps

Benozzo Gozzoli "Procession of the Magi"

Factory Trademark

Bringing Pelts to the Factory

Hair Cutting

Sales Department

Mixing Hair

Wing of Janyška Factory

Z. Factory Courtyard FY Janyška

Apartni Troteur with Felt Belt and a Narrow Brim

Walking Hat

 

Women's Models

Walking Hat "Camber"

Parts of Factory Janyška

Look into the Decoration of Hats

Hunting Hat

Viewing Samples

Hunting Hat

Hunting Hat

 

 

1 hour ago, ErWeSa said:

Messmer Konrad Carl, Hut-Fabrikant, founded in 1790, seems to have been one of the Hoflieferanten (deliverers of the Austrian Court):

https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liste_der_k.u.k._Hoflieferanten_1899#M

https://austria-forum.org/af/AustriaWiki/Liste_der_k.u.k._Hoflieferanten_1899

and Hotel Kummer (where he sold his hats?) still exists (Dec. 2019): https://kummer-hotel-vienna.hotel-ds.com/de/ there is a nice picture on their homepage showing how it looked like at the time with many shops at the basement.

In 1939 they were still there, with new associates: Margarete Messmer/Meßmer (wife? daughter?) and Carl & Margarethe Puxbaum.

also in 1942, meanwhile Margarete Puxbaum became Margarete Schnell:

HR = Handelsregister, there should be further information there.

Wolfgang, Great information.  This one has a Hutproduktiv Wien paper label but I am not sure if it's pre or post WWII.  The label is French so I think it's after but might have been from early stock from either Hutproduktiv Wien or C. Messmer Wien (which I tend to doubt) .  

1 hour ago, ErWeSa said:

Nice Austro-Hungarian officer's cap - I can't see the center of the cockade, but I suppose it Says FJ I - Franz Josef I.

As the ad indicates they also sold "Kappen" = caps.

Thanks.  I might contact this collector since he is located in Graz.  It's possible he might know about the history of the company.

44 minutes ago, ErWeSa said:

Yes, could indeed be Czech! The owner of the Kepka firm in Graz I sent you the link of via PM is a certain Karin Krahl-Wichmann - perhaps there is a connection there, who knows. Seems as if you'd have to visit Graz again.

I found this cap.    

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49254729266_b44fca398b_b.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49254729321_2ac71218f9_b.jpg

 

 

47 minutes ago, ErWeSa said:

Hello Steve,

yes, I took the info from the Graz Adressbücher. What is interesting is that the paid ads (see above) state "Huterzeugung" (at Schmiedgasse 14) so it seems they really made hats, the entry in the telephone directory says: Handel ("retail of hats, caps, millinery, slippers and felt shoes") and this retail seems to have taken place at the other addresses.

Unfortunately I couldn't find anything on Kahr - the only available address books are for 1938 and 1943. Could this have been a case of aryanisation? As it was a OHG (Ordinary/General partnership) there should be info available in the Firmenbuch.

 

 

Very interesting. Aryanisation makes sense.  Is Skriwanek Czech?  

I found this up to 1977.  steirische Plasticwarenfabrik, Ludwig Skriwanek, Inh. Erika u. Walter Berger, Graz 1439

https://portal.zedhia.at/page/public/cpa_000431-85/industrie-compass-1977

I found this later hat so it survived in some form post WWII.  

https://4store.com.ua/obyavlenie/shlyapa-muzhskaya-ohotnichya-fetr-germaniya-hutskriwanek-graz-621964524/

 

 

Wolfgang,  Thank you for this valuable information!  Is this info from Graz city directories?  There isn't a paper label behind the sweatband.  I guess it's possible they made the hat but it could have easily been sourced.  The building locations look more retail oriented but I guess they could have had a small production facility.   Is there any information on W. & M. Kahr?  

Mayser "Spezial", 57 cm probably 1950 based on the 150 Year mark on the Crown Patch.  This hat belongs to Stefan on the FL.

Sold by 

J. Hückel ´s Söhne "Jota" "Seal Velour", French Point Size 4 / 54 cm, possibly mid 1930s.  This hat belongs to "65 Classic" on the FL.

Hückel Weiheim "Chamois" in grey. Size 58 with the bound brim at 6,5cm and the crown 10,5cm at the center dent. We've seen several of these hats before in slightly different variations of ribbon treatment and brim bindings. The basic hat is the same and quite rightly so: the felt is fabulous. Previous comments by Stefan on the FL. This hat belongs to Stefan on the FL.

C. Messmer Wien, 59 cm possibly late 1940s.  The felt on this hat is fantastic.  Also the contrasting black liner and white sweatband in striking.  It appears to be have been made by Hutproduktiv Wien (see below).  I couldn't find anything on C. Messmer Wien production capabilities. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Based on the paper label the hat was made by Hutproduktiv Wien.  The label is in French because Hutproduktiv Wien was located in District XIV which was under French control after WWII..  Here is another example.

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/163-hutproduktiv-wien/?do=findComment&comment=911

 

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C. Messmer Wien

I couldn't find anything on C. Messmer Wien production capabilities. 

 

C. Messmer Wien, 59 cm possibly late 1940s.  The felt on this hat is fantastic.  Also the contrasting black liner and white sweatband in striking.  It appears to be have been made by Hutproduktiv Wien (see below).  I couldn't find anything on C. Messmer Wien production capabilities. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Based on the paper label the hat was made by Hutproduktiv Wien.  The label is in French because Hutproduktiv Wien was located in District XIV which was under French control after WWII..  Here is another example.

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/163-hutproduktiv-wien/?do=findComment&comment=911

Vienna Hat Company Washington, Measures 7 1/4, Wide Oval, possibly mid 1950s.  The felt has a fantastic smooth finish  and is very dense.  Unique narrow binding on a curled brim.

 

431 Eleventh Street NW

Washington, DC

This company was owned by my good friend William Fleishell's Great Uncle Roscoe.