habigman

Rockel Velour, size 57, gray, probably late 1930s / 1940s. This one belongs to Fastuni on the FL.

DESCRIPTION AT94440 ________________________________________ Velourstumpenbürstmaschine. sitting in the bore of the arms 7, set in its radial distance .. By this arrangement, a limited mobility of the otherwise rigid pillar supports 6 is ensured for free in setting the variable by pressing the brush level within the hub disc 4. An example wei "e paktÎ3che embodiment is illustrated in FIG. 4 and 4a, according to which the Nabenseheibe 4 is in two parts and worried after inserting the arms a cover disk 4'den external financial statements. By this means a replacement of the arms is easily possible. The drive of the Stump wheel is in any way, such as by a sprocket 11, the drive receives a drive shaft 12 which drives simultaneously by means of chains 23, the two BrstenweIIen 13. In the length of the arms 7 corresponding distance from the shaft 3, the two brushes 2 are fixed on either shaft 13. Because on the one hand in the operation of the brush bristles contamination occurs, on the other hand is required to protect the same Drehriehtung a changing brushes need to be fixed easily solvable on the shaft. According to the embodiment shown, seated on the shaft. 13 keyed a Flanschseheibe-M, in which the brushes are easy to replace 2 attached by screws 15. The centering concerned hiebei projecting beyond the flange-M stub shaft 13th In order to avoid the formation of vortices and associated tearing of hair brush bristles are arranged only in the corresponding radial distance from Bürstmittelpunkt as concentric Krehring, while the inner circle remains empty. In Fig. 5a is an example, expedient embodiment of the brush shown in view in which the annular surface bristle radial channels 25 are recessed, on the one hand prevent clogging and thus ineffective If the brush bristles, since d? s Filzhaar between two brushes sectors can always raise and covered by fresh, not folded bristles wisp, while on the other hand, the brushed hair for the most part fall by the radhien channels 25 of the brush and not entangle the bristles. The contact pressure of the brushes on the stump with spring loading has the disadvantage that often hiebei the brush and thus the fat and hat were unusable on the one hand by the required lubrication of the spring while Andersen whose joint is at an angle lever 17, an ever-centric engagement of the contact pressure is achieved and, moreover, the respectively required pressure by adjusting the weight 19 on the lever 17 is adjustable in the simplest way. To fix the stumps on the Stump carriers serve lever-shaped terminals 8 which are rotatably actuated by a bolt 22 through an eccentric 9 in'einfachster and most reliable way, as has been shown enlarged in Fig. 6 and 6a. By arranging these terminals, it is possible stumps of different size without adjusting the retaining organ at all times firmly clamp. PATENT CLAIMS: 1. Velourstumpenbürstmaschine where the stumps are dipped in hot water and pulled through a rotating brush pair, characterized by tapered at the tip, practical essays by (20) on the full strength expandable flat cone Stump support (6). ________________________________________ 2. Velourstumpen BRUSHING claim. 1, characterized in that the rigid arms (7) provided flat cone Stump carrier in the hub disc (4) of the Stump wheel (6) are fixed with play freely in the brush setting level. 3. Velourstumpen BRUSHING according to claim 1, characterized in that you easily replaceable annular occupied with bristles flat brush bristles have recesses, preferably in the form of radial channels (25). 4. Velourstumpebürstmaschine according to claim 1 and 3, characterized in that the uniform pressing of the brushes (2) to the stump by weight loading of the brush shaft (13). 5. Velourstumpenbürstmaschine according to claim 1, characterized in that the fastening of the stump on the supports (6) by means of the eccentric lever (9) operated clamping lever (8).

A. Breiter München "Der Hutmacher am Dom" (1925)

Continued.

I was able to find the Austrian Patent (133275) stamped on the sweatband of the above P. & C. Habig Wien - Berlin Melone with the felt insert that P. & C. Habig Wien called "Auto Cape". The patent claim is to make a stiff felt hat that is resistant to denting and the felt insert being a part of the invention. Drawing from the French Patent(756192A). This is the Austrian Patent(133275) from 1932 and an addendum from 1936. http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/199-men’s-stiff-felt-hat-and-method-for-its-production-austrian-patent-nr-133275-1932-adolf-sindermann-hans-frankmann/ This is the French Patent (756192A) from 1933. The translation might be a bit more clear in this one. http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/200-a-method-for-the-manufacture-of-melone-bowlers-french-patent-nr-756192a-1933-m-adolf-sindermann/ The inventor Adolf Sindermann has a good number of hat related patents. His company was a major supplier of felt stumpen and capelines.

DESCRIPTION FR756192 ________________________________________ A method for the manufacture of bowlers. The present invention relates to a procéd.é for the manufacture of rigid cap hats of the said form melons and resides in that after the flexible molded cap in its classic rounded shape for the bowler it reaches all shares sharply and without folds on an elastic rigid frame. On others- features of the invention reside in particular artifices of the process in order to obtain the maximum dimensional stability of the hat and also, finally, in the use of special rigid forms. The manufacture of half-round man hats rigid cap of the said form was melon to date with chemical known starch such as eg shellac, to give the soft felt hat rounded by molding, so that the edge formed in a suitable manner, a stiffness allowing them indefinitely retain their shape under normal use. However, the disadvantage of this rigidity conferred as known to the material residing in that when, after mechanical deformation resulting for example from a shock or pressure, it is restored to its original form hat, traces of dented the party remained indefinitely stiff felt it with these points of fracture primers that made it unusable hat, besides, furthermore contour fractures remain after deletion of depression, the cap never fully regained its rounded shape to where it had been dented. According to the invention, this disadvantage is avoided in that the rigid cap hat, especially where it is exposed to be dented, is made of soft felt and that the rigidity is obtained by means of a resilient inner armature, so that any deformation of the cap leaves no trace in the soft felt, however, that the cap indefinitely retains its rigid form. The drawing shows a longitudinal section of a bowler manufactured by the method according to the present invention. After receiving manufacturing, as we know, the usual form, the soft felt hat is molded during shaping on an appropriate form. This tends form a lattice or an elastic fabric that closely conforms to the shape and is maintained in this position by means of clamping bands marginal. This mesh or fabric is preferably manufactured in sheets or steel wire bristle strips, rayon, etc., or by a combination of these elements, so that the son of the mesh or fabric free play between them, so that the stiffness obtained by using this lattice by a close fit to the shape clothed significantly resilient character and provides indefinite indeformability to mechanical tests, that is to say so that the depressions are immediately and automatically erased due to the elasticity of the fabric or mesh. The form given to the rigid fabric or mesh on the form can be made more steep by shellac, tragacanth, etc. Above the rigid armature thus obtained whose surface dimensions correspond consequently exactly to the inner surface dimensions of the cover cap to be manufactured, then the cap tends to closely soft felt and without folds on all sides, whereupon permanently fixed frame in its place, preferably by means of leather that is sewn after stroke in the inlet of the cap. In the drawing, 1 denotes the soft cap of rigid cap H to obtain; 2 denotes the stretched elastic reinforcement within and formed by the fabric or the mesh described above, 3 the point where the resilient armature is supported on the leather 4. To increase the deformability of the hat can make its more rigid cap at its top by the application of shellac or through inner plates of rubber, this strengthening is reducing in the direction of 1r edge in such a way that rounding ir is in any case consists of soft felt. Similarly, the lower part of the rotator 1u edge can be stiffened edge upwards as indicated by a starch or internal reinforcement of rubber, this strengthening is reducing in the direction of the party rounded 1r. Accordingly, the top 1a of the cap so that its bottom edge 1u are stiffened by means of rubber paste or reinforcements and the elastic plate 2, while the rounded 1r of the cap, which is part of more exposed, is kept in shape by the rigid reinforcement 2, this region remains soft felt. CLAIMS FR756192 ________________________________________ SUMMARY: 1. A method for the manufacture of man Hats rigid cap, characterized in that after having molded the soft cap in its rounded shape is the tendency of all units strongly and wrinkle on a resilient rigid reinforcement fitting exactly to the shape of soft felt cap; 2. The soft cap is stiffened from the lower edge in the direction of its top; 3. The top of the cap is stiffened in the direction of the curve; 4. The rigid armature consists of a fabric or a resilient lattice whose son freely play therebetween; 5. The strengthening of the rotator will by fading from the bottom edge and the top of it is made by rubber plates whose thickness gradually decreases.

DESCRIPTION AT146993 ________________________________________ Process for the production of rigid Mr hats. The invention is a further feature of the subject of the patent no. 133,275, according to which is clamped in a process for the production of rigid men's hats of soft felt head via a rigid elastic insert. In the further elaboration of this article has shown that it is necessary, the felt hat with elastic stiffening insert solid, ie to be joined by an adhesive, so no unsightly wrinkling of the detached for a short time by the stiff insert also when pressing the hat felt arises. It is applied, for example, to that end between the liner and the stiff felt gutta-percha, so that at the hot pressing is formed an intimate connection between insoluble stiff liner and felt. Of course, any other suitable binder is equally, if it only has no tendency to brittleness. The preparation of such a hat is very easy for. B. an elastic Palrrgeflecht pasted over with a thin felt and then molded to Steifhut, wherein it is not necessary to take a special piece of felt for the edge, but wherein it is possible to prepare the coating for the upper edge and lower edge of a single thin Filzstumpen so that the coating is stretched around the inside edge of the inserted Steifhutes around from one piece over the lower edge to the inside of the hat. While the head of the cap consists of two layers, namely Filzoberschicht, elastic inner layer, the edge thus consists of three layers, felt on the upper margin, elastic intermediate layer and felt on the bottom edge. Of course it is also easily possible to glue the bottom edge with another substance, Hiezu about to take a black silk fabric, giving the hat is a particularly pleasing appearance. ** WARNING ** end of DESC field known overlap the beginning of CLMS **. CLAIMS AT146993 ________________________________________ PATENT CLAIM: A process for the production of rigid Mr hats according Pat. No. 133 275, characterized in that the felt with the elastic stiffening insert by a bonding agent (adhesive) is fixedly connected.

DESCRIPTION AT133275 ________________________________________ Men’s Stiff Felt Hat and method for its production. The invention relates to a process for the production of rigid Mr hats (melon ") and is that the soft round squeezed on all sides felt head is clamped firmly and without wrinkles in a conventional stiff hats in the form of an elastic casting mold. Further characteristics of the invention are in particular auxiliary measures of the process for the purpose of the greater dimensional stability of the Steifhutes and, finally, in the use of special casting molds. The commonly used now semi-circular rigid men's hats (melons, called) were prepared in such a way that the corresponding roughly squeezed soft felt head and the correspondingly shaped brim by known chemical stiffening agent such. As shellac, was made rigid, thereby retaining the shape for a long time for normal use. The disadvantage of this known MateI1alsteifung, however, was that the bump edges in rigid felt were permanently visible when mechanical requirements, such as shock or compressive deformations, after the buckling of the hat to its original shape, because the stiff felt exhibited at these points fracture traces which hat the made unusable, said after the bulging apart from the visible fault line entered permanent deformation of the circular shape of the bump map. According to the invention, this disadvantage is avoided by the stiff hat, especially at-risk for the dent bodies is made of soft felt and the stiffness is achieved by an elastic insert in the soft felt, so that each Hutdeformation in soft felt remains without a trace and However, the stiff hat shape is retained permanently. In the drawing, the longitudinal section through a rigid Herrenhut prepared by the process. The soft felt hat made in a known manner in the usual form is pressed on the question head shape during treatment. About the same head shape an elastic braid or a fabric is stretched and precisely adapted to the head shape and obtained by lower Rim strip in this form. This mesh or fabric is conveniently od in flat areas or strips of horsehair, steel wire, artificial silk. Like. Or a combination of these elements made such that the tissue or Geflechtefäden each other have free play, so that the casting mold made of this network by precise adaptation to the hat shape in question is reliable elastic and mechanical deformations with respect to its shape remains constant, ie indented bumps through the tissue and Geflechteelastizität be immediately bulged again automatically. The braid made about the hat shape or Stiff tissue form may be even more by shellac, tragacanth od. Like. Stiffened. About the thus prepared casting mold which exactly in their surface dimensions corresponds THEREFORE the inner dimension of said produced Hutkopfes, the soft felt head is then stretched on all sides firmly and without wrinkles, whereupon the casting mold is conveniently held constant and fixed by the subsequently sewn welding leather inside the Hutkrone. On the drawing 1 soft hat head of the produced rigid Herrenhutes H, 2 the clamped elastic stiff shape from the described woven or braided, 3, the point at which the elastic casting mold is supported on the sweatband sewn 4. To increase the dimensional stability of the hat, the highest point can be stiffened 1 ades Hutkopfes by shellac coating or by rubber inserts inside the Hutkopfes which stiffening r runs against the edge 1, so that the risk margin. 1 r vault in any case made of soft felt. Similarly, also the lower Impregnating agent or inner rubber inserts his stiff which bracing against the curved edge 1? 'The Hutkopfes to runs. There are then the highest point 1a of Hutkopfes and bottom edges of the Hutkopfes 1a by the impregnating agent or the rubber mat and the elastic casting mold 2 stiffened, while the for dents most vulnerable border 1r the hat shape only by the casting mold 2 in shape is obtained, since this part of the felt is soft. PATENT CLAIMS: 1. A process for the production of rigid Mr hats. characterized in that the soft round pre-pressed felt head (1) via an elastic, shape of the head of the Filzkopfes exactly matched stiff insert (2) is stretched on all sides firmly and without wrinkles. CLAIMS AT133275 ________________________________________ 2. A method according to claim 1, characterized in that the soft felt head (2) is on the lower edge (1u) stiffened to extend up against the head. 3. The method of claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the agent is (1a) of the Hutkopfes (1) stiffened to extend against the edge (1r). 4. Stiff man's hat, made by the method according to claim 1, characterized in that the stiffening insert made of an elastic mesh or fabric is a free game thread. 5. Stiff man's hat, made by the method according to claims 2 and 3, characterized in that the extending stiffening the lower edge (1u) and crown part (1a) of the Hutkopfes is formed by extending in its thickness rubber inserts

"Lollar" No Company Mark**, size 58cm, Wool, 6 inch Open Crown, 2 1/2 inch Overwelt Brim, Back Bow, small hole at front crease. The Wool felt is very soft / pliable and light weight. Unfortunately it has a small hole at the front crease (not that noticeable if creased down) but other than that it's in very good condition. The paper label doesn't have any company mark but does have a model name "Lollar" which is a German town. I paid about $20.00 for this hat including shipping and it wears great too! Rear View Open Crown ** Made by the same company as my EMS (now I am not sure these are company initials) Gloria. EMS "Gloria"

G. A. Dunn & Co. "Austrian" Velour made by TONAK, size 7 UK, probably early 1950s. This one belongs to Daniele on the FL. Here is his description.

Christy's London, UK Size 7, date stamped 15. Jan. 1936. This Bowler came with the P. & C. Habig Wien - Berlin Melone. It was sold by Philipp Neubauer, Unter den Linden, Berlin, 24. (this location didn't survive WWII).

P. & C. Habig Wien - Berlin "Special Qualität" with "Auto Cape", size 58cm, very good condition, 208 grams, probably mid 1930s. The hat has an very unique inner gray felt shell. The felt shell might be removable but I am not going to take a chance trying to remove it. The felt shell adds extra weight but the hat is still very comfortable to wear. I guess "Auto Cape" could be related to the felt shell. There is a patent number (Austrian or German?) that might lead to something. The hat was made for the P. & C. Habig Berlin store at Friedrichstrasse 82 which didn't survive WWII. I think it might be from the 1935 because "35" is last number on the paper label number sequence. Also came with a smaller size old Christys' London Bowler that was sold by a Berlin retail store. P. & C. Habig "Habig Hüte" Friedrichstrasse 82. Berlin

TONAK Plant Hückel "Alpha" "Seal Velour", 57cm, probably late 1940s early 1950s. It was exported to Finland. This beauty belongs to Robert (RLK) on the FL

Der Filzhut (The Felt Hat), seine Geschichte und seine Herstellung (Its History and Preparation). Hrsg.v.d. Deutschen Hutmacher-Zeitung (German Hat Maker Newspaper). 1936 Hat Size Conversion Table Points Centimeter English American What is interesting is the 1/2 Centimeter sizes so French Points are in 1/4 increments. I have seen this used in pre WWII JHS hats (see below) but I know of no other examples. So based on the above chart Weite (Size) 5 3/4 Point would be 58 1/2cm.

Chapter 8 Technical Terms of Hatters

Der Filzhut (The Felt Hat), seine Geschichte und seine Herstellung (Its History and Preparation). Hrsg.v.d. Deutschen Hutmacher-Zeitung (German Hat Maker Newspaper). 1936 This 312 page book has some information from "Fabrikation von Damen- und Herren- Filzhüten, Der Deustchen Hutmacher Zeitung (1933)" but there is a large amount of new material including a long Glossary of hat related words / terms.

Deutsche Landschaft, Volume 1, Burkhard-Verlag., 1956 Six and a half years (1925?) after the First World War, it seemed daring that the young person skilled Heinrich Rockel put his hat factory to Alsfeld. But here he could count on the instinct of skilled workers and found the basic condition for its quality service. The good old craftsmen and ......

1937 date stamped envelope from a Dutch Mayser distributor (N.V. Hoedenmaatschappij, Bussum). The Mayser logo on the envelope matches the sweatband logo (only one I have seen) on this fantastic Mayser Velour.

Johann Hückel´s Söhne "Extra", made for John Wannamaker Philadelphia. This beauty belongs to Garrett. Refurbished by BSHW. Auction photos. http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/6-johann-hueckel´s-soehne-hueckel-hutfabrik-weilheim/page-9#entry1057

Blum - Velour (12/10/1928)

Habock's Velour (12/10/1928)

Janyška, size 56cm, probably WWII era. This is the first Janyška I have encountered. It belongs to Paddy on the FL.

Lembert "Standard", size 56cm, probably early 1960s. This one belongs to Paddy on the FL.

Continued.